10/14/11

La Union


La Union, with its fine coastline that faces the South China Sea and its beautiful gardens, fell way behind in tourism after more popular tourist destinations like the Hundred Islands in Pangasinan, Palawan, Batangas, and Boracay gained more prominence in the past 10 years. Long before that, local tourists and American military servicemen from the nearby Wallace Air Station (which has now been converted into a business and industrial area to facilitate the economic activity in the region – with service, manufacturing, shipping, and agricultural areas spread all over La Union) trooped to the seedy beaches of Bauang for some good old rest and recreation (which is of course a euphemism for the prostitution boom) until 1991. And like the surrounding areas of the former US military bases in the Philippines like Subic and Clark – an unmistakable awkward vibe is felt in the air when discussions turn to anything that remotely mention the former American military presence in the area.

Philippines La Union
La Union
La Union, which is 6 hours north of Manila, was created by a Royal Decree issued by the Spanish Queen, Isabella, on 18 April 1854. The province was created from 9 towns of Pangasinan, 3 towns of Ilocos Sur and the villages of Eastern Pais del Igorotes that straddles the western foothills of the Cordilleras. The name of the province was, thus, derived from the union of these towns from the different provinces. Before the Spaniards came in 1572, La Union was already a bustling and important trading port, especially for gold, with Chinese and Japanese merchants present in the area.
The province made a big comeback though and literally made a big splash in the local and international surfing community as it is now one of the favored surfing sites in the Philippines after Siargao in Mindanao. The friendly swells of San Juan and Urbiztondo towns, with its equally amiable and well-established surfing community (surfing started in the ‘80s when foreigners started settling in these towns) is both best for the beginners with its beach breaks (San Juan Beach Break; Bacnotan with a right-hander) and reef breaks (a right-hander in Monaliza Point- popular among the locals, who can also be a bit territorial; Carille – features waves that can be up to 300 meters long and 15 foot high in best conditions) for the more advanced surfers and one of the most accessible surf spots if you are coming from Manila. There are two major surfing competitions – the Rimat Ti Amianan (Treasure of the North) in December, which is one of the important legs of the Philippine Surfing Federation Surf Circuit and draws top Filipino surfing talents, and the Mabuhay Longboarding Cup, an international surf event which is incidentally the longest running longboard competition in the Philippines.

Philippines La Union San Juan Surf
San Juan Surf
Photo by tristanjohn
The Billabong Cup also has an annual surf competition here – where Luke Landrigan, the most famous amongst the bunch rules the roost and one is of the co-founders of the United Pinoy Surfers. His Dad, Brian Landrigan, actually was among those credited of piquing the interests of the locals when he was amongst the first people to start catching the waves in this area in the early ‘80s. Luke eventually settled in the area and established the San Juan Surf Resort.
If you are a beginner surfer or simply want to learn the ropes of this fast-rising sport in the Philippine sporting scene – contact either Pj Valenciano (+63.9217.8607193), Yna Lozada (+63.917.8827583), Donna Valenciano (+63.917.8059011) or Gerard de Sagun (+63.927.7905149) of He’e Nalu Surfing Pinas. They organize surf camps to San Juan as well as in many other surf destinations in the Philippines like Baler in Aurora Province (Pacific Coast) and you can get taught to catch that wave by topnotch Philippine surfers themselves. Top surfers Daisy Valdes and Jefferson de la Torre had a lot of patience teaching us the basics of surfing and helping us to paddle out into the seas. Usually, you should be able to stand on the board and catch the wave in about 15 minutes (well, I guess I am a relatively fast learner – heh!). He’e Nalu Surfing Pinas is also the only surf group actively involved with the beach clean up.
If you plan to head out, please check with the group or with the Philippine Surfing Federation regarding the weather, and wave conditions. In some cases, the swells are not very reliable. San Juan Surf resort has a live cam feed, although it seems that it is not as updated as one would want and Global Surfari has a surf forecast resort (although this cannot be independently verified).
With the rise of La Union as an important surfing destination, comes the problem of waste. Good thing that Green Zinc Clean Shores spearheaded by Chris Sullivan, a non-profit organization aimed at protecting Philippine beaches, has started raising awareness not only amongst locals but with visiting surfers as well. In San Juan, a typical surf camp usually starts with a talk from one of the founders – Uffe Konig. Green Zinc also organize volunteers in beach cleanups – if you go to one of the surf camps – a beach cleanup is usually included in the itinerary – a sort of giving back to the community for every stoke that one experiences in its rolling surfs.
Aside from surfing, La Union is also known for its Botanical Gardens in San Fernando City which showcases different pavilions in its sprawling ten-hectare facility -a Fernery, Palmery, Fragrance Garden, Sunken Garden, Evergreen Garden, Arid Paradise, and a Shade Garden – with flora and fauna that are indigenous only to the Philippines. This offers a welcome respite from the humid and sometimes searing hot weather of the province.

Philippines La Union ma-cho temple
A beautiful Taoist Temple is another important tourist attraction in the province. Ma-Cho Temple, is located on a hill 70 feet above the sea level and offers commanding views of the bay. Coming from Manila, it is situated on your right, after you basically leave the San Fernando city centre on your way to San Juan. It was constructed on 11 September 1975 through the joint efforts of the local Chinese community. Ma-Cho, a revered Chinese deity was said to be born in 960 AD during the Sung Dynasty and according to a legend, she actively participated in the rescue operations of distressed fishermen, thus earning herself the titles, “Goddess of the Sea” and “Queen of Heaven” amongst others. The eight inch wooden statue has a striking similarity meanwhile to the “Virgin of Caysasay” who is enshrined at the Basilica of San Martin in Taal, Batangas and devotees believe that the two are one and the same. From 20th to 26th of September of each year, devotees and pilgrims gather for the annual celebration of enshrinement for a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Saint Martin in Taal, Batangas and from there, the devotees together with the image of Ma-Cho will travel back to San Fernando City and then a procession follows around the city centre. Similar temples can also be found in Malaysia, Taiwan, Singapore and many other countries with a sizable Chinese community (which basically goes without saying that they are everywhere).
For Catholics, La Union offers aged churches namely- Basilica of Our Lady of Charity (1578), Our Lady of Namacpacan (1600s-1800s), St. William Cathedral (1764), Sts. Peter and Paul Parish (1587), St. Michael the Archangel (1817) and St. John the Baptist (1707) and St. Christopher Parish (1696) – the only church in the Philippines with three belfries. Other attractions include the Balay Anito Falls which means House of Spirits, 4-5 kilometers from the main town of Santol. Apparently in early times, locals saw a ball of fire on this waterfall and thought these were spirits or “anitos” and “balay” means house, thus, the name. Lon-oy Springs in San Gabriel, La Union which consists of numerous natural springs, deep waterfalls and clear waters – Bakes Swimming Pool gets its water supply from these springs. Can’t make it to the rice terraces of Banawe or Sagada? The rice fields of Bolikewkew, Delles and Burgos provide a sneak peek of the big ones and serves as a hiking and trekking alternative. The Arosip Ecotrail reveals several waterfalls such as the Zim-zum-ug Twin Falls (one of the falls dried out as waters was redirected to the rice fields), Tekdag-aso Falls, and Padtok Falls.

Why Not Go


If you are looking for picture-perfect white sand beaches like Boracay (although there is a decent beach in San Juan and at Poro Point) or the rugged, misty mountain town of Sagada, then better pack your bags to those destinations – La Union does not have that.

Why Go


Philippines La Union
Need a surfing fix close to Manila? La Union is one of the best choices for you. The laidback and friendly surfing communities in these parts are some of the most chilled and relaxed weekend sports getaways in this part of Luzon Island.

Best Time to Visit


If you plan to go to surf – the North Swell usually starts around October until March (although beware as well, because this time is also notorious as being the jellyfish season and a lot of surfers get stung); while the South Swell arrives around late May to June until August. To catch better waves, check out the Philippine weather forecast by Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical & Astronomical Services Administration – and for seasoned surfers, best time to ride the waves is when there are typhoons around the area. For other sites in La Union, it is best enjoyed during the dry season.

Dumaguete


Dumaguete is the “city of gentle people.” It is where you can still find tree-lined streets, with motorcycles, not cars and taxis, dominating the road. Everything about it is simple and serene- from its people to the various places surrounding the city. It is located in Negros Oriental, opposite Bacolod City. A University town where you can see more students than working professionals, Dumaguete is among the most peaceful and clean cities in the Visayas.

Philippines Dumaguete Boulevard
Every time one would visit Dumaguete, there is always that longing to come back again. You can actually breathe in clean and fresh air- something you can hardly experience when you are in busy cities in the country.

Why Not Go



I cannot think of any reason why anyone would regret going to Dumaguete. Perhaps if you prefer the hustle and bustle of busy streets and fast-paced living then probably, you will not enjoy the quietness of this little city.

Why Go



When a person wants a place to relax, it is always a good excuse to go to Dumaguete. A place where everything is accessible even by foot, it provides convenience to visitors- you can just walk to the mall, church, hotel and market. Moreover, Dumaguete is very close to beautiful dive sites and lovely islands that are most ideal for honeymooners or simply for people who want to have some fun in the sun. Plus, it is always nice to know that almost everything in Dumaguete is inexpensive, from accommodation to food, you can go there regardless of how much your budget is. Laid-back living, fun, convenience and affordability are what will want to make people visit this city.

Best Time to Visit



Philippines Dumaguete City

November would be a good time to go, specifically around the 3rd to 4th week of the month because this is when the city celebrates its most anticipated fiesta in honor of their patron saint, Sta. Catalina de Alexandria. This is always celebrated with grandeur, complete with parades, shows and carnivals. Most homes would always prepare a sumptuous celebration for 2-3 days. You might want to book your hotel ahead though as they are mostly full during this time.




One of the nicest places we’ve stayed in is at Sta. Monica Beach Resort in Banilad. It is about 10 minutes from the center of the city, complete with a swimming pool, sea view and a big garden. Rates start at $38 for air-conditioned rooms. You can also stay at Bethel Guesthouse right along Rizal Boulevard, which is where everything is. Rates for their standard rooms start at $19. Now if you are on a tight budget, there are clean rooms available at pension houses such as Hotel Palwa (it’s a pension house, not a hotel) which can be as low as $8 a night.


Where & What to Eat



You can eat your lunch at City Burger located at Perdices Street. They have the best “chicken inasal” in the city.

Then proceed to the most popular dessert place called Sans Rival at San Jose Street. Everybody goes there for their Sylvannas and Sans Rival but personally, I like their tiramisu best.

Dinner should be at Lab-as where you can sample fresh sea foods. They offer Sutukil, a set meal with grilled fish, fish soup and raw fish soaked in vinegar and herbs. They also have a soup specialty on the menu called “boullabaise” which tastes really great.


Nightlife

The place to be to have fun at night would be along the Boulevard where you can find a few bars and pubs. You can go to Y Not Bar and Gimmick. However, a lot of people go there not just to have some beer but also to just sit down and admire the beautiful sea view and enjoy the cool breeze.

My to do List

• First off, you should see the renowned Silliman University. It is one of the oldest schools in the country and is among the biggest too.


Philippines Dumaguete Cathedral
• Then you can stop by the city’s age-old cathedral named after their patron saint, Sta. Catalina de Alexandria (or St. Catherine of Alexandria) built in the 17th century. It is a very prominent landmark in the city. Adjacent to it is the old belfry which was used as a siege tower during the Spanish colony.


Philippines Dumaguete
Dumaguete Belfry: Used as a watchtower during the 19th Century to warn the inhabitants (by ringing the bells) of the then small fishing village of impending raids by marauding pirates from the south of the islands. From its top can be seen the island of Mindanao on the horizon (now obscured by trees and buildings).These raids were so rampant in the area during those times that this little fishing village came to be known as “Dumagit” or “Dagit” which means “kidnap” in the local Cebuano language. The Spanish authorities later adopted and restructured or “hispanized” the name to “Dumaguete”.
Photo by baktincorporation

• Next, go see Mountain Camp in Valencia which is about 20 minutes from Dumaguete. There you will be surrounded with Nature, literally- what with tall trees and cold springs around. Entrance fee is about $1.25 per person.

• If you like to play golf, you should check out Bravo Golf Resort at Sibulan, which is about 15 minutes from the city limits. It is very secluded; they have a 9-hole golf course at very cheap rates. You should also know that they have a hotel and 3 huge infinity pools, plus the best Italian food in Dumaguete!

• You can also find one of the top 10 diving sites in the country- Apo Island. You can take a 35-minute boat ride to get there from the city.



Philippines Dumaguete Apo Island Diving
Apo island is an important migratory route for whales and dolphins and home to the first community-run marine sanctuary which has been protected since 1982. The spectacular diversity of species and dive sites available here is proof that the community approach to coastal resource management works; at Apo island, you get to see enormous, silvery schools of jacks (a species related to tuna), endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles, Napoleon wrasse, bumphead parrotfish, brilliantly colored soft coral gardens with thousands of fluttering clown fish, and at certain times of the year thresher sharks have also even been sighted.

• You can also avail of ATV rentals from various places in Dumaguete such as the Atlantis Resort. Experience dirt road driving with these vehicles for as low as $30.

• If you like to explore some more, you can go to Bais City which is about an hour and a half’s drive away from Dumaguete. Here you can go dolphin and whale watching for just $25 (group).

• The magical island of Siquijor is also within a short trip from Dumaguete, and makes an excellent overnight trip – ideal for scuba diving and snorkeling. Trekking and spelunking is also highly recommended on Siguijor!


The beautiful city of Davao is surrounded by picture-perfect landscapes. Also known as Dabaw, it is the biggest metropolis in the Philippines in terms of land area. It is also among the country’s most progressive places, yet living there would still afford you the luxury of living in the countryside; thus it is dubbed as the “city of two worlds.”
Davao is in the southern part of Mindanao and is in the same island as Cagayan de Oro, Iligan and Bukidnon.
“Durian, the king of fruits, has a special place in the hearts of Davaoenos. It is, after all, one of the greatest attractions of Davao City, luring thousands of visitors to come see these shores to experience the fruit that, some say, “tastes like heaven but smells like hell.” But more than just an attraction, the durian is a delight to the Davaoenos, especially to the lumad community who were surely the first to enjoy it. It is also a “thorny” reminder that there is much to be thankful for in this land. The abundance of nature is never more obvious than during durian season, when the streets overflow with the fruit and locals can be found squatting on the sidewalk to enjoy a simple — truly incomparable — feast.”
Durian
Durian
These words are etched on a tablet, underneath the Durian Eaters Statue, which is found in a favorite hang-out overlooking Davao City. Durian is closely associated with Davao (unfortunately, we didn’t have the chance to eat Durian while in Davao), although it’s not  confined in Davao alone — the first time I ate Durian, I was somewhere between Iligan City and Marawi City. We simply parked beside the road, bought one Durian each, then ate with bare hands. No one noticed, or said a thing, about the alleged smell on our way back to the hotel. It tastes good, I must say. But then again, that’s just my opinion. (Photo courtesy of Wikipedia)Why Not Go


If you want to experience all night fun in street parties, this might not be the perfect place for you to visit. Although there are a number of nice bars in Davao, night life is not a big thing in this city as people prefer to go to parks and farms instead.

Why Go



Davao Samal Island
Pearl Farm @ Samal Island – A coastal paradise located at the heart of Davao Gulf. A haven to those seeking solace in an unspoiled and natural ambience and to those who are in quest for great adventure and extreme challenges with nature. It’s white and pristine beaches and diverse natural attractions combined with the warmth and hospitality of its people spell out its potential to be a world class ecotourism destination in this part of Southern Mindanao.
Photo by Jokojun
Davao is one of the must-see places in the Philippines because it has so much to offer its visitors. From the island treasure known as Pearl Farm in Samal island to the nature trips in its vast collection of farms, mountains, volcanoes and plantations, Davao makes for one very interesting city. It is also noteworthy to know that up to this day, you will still find a very diverse community here, with ethnic tribes and modern people coexisting harmoniously. Thus, you will often find a wide array of arts and crafts such as hand-woven cloths and ethnic beads being sold in market stands.

Best Time to Visit


Davao Kadayawan Festival
The Kadayawan is a celebration of thanksgiving for the gifts of nature, the wealth of culture, the bounties of harvest and serenity of living. The festival pays tribute to Davao’s artistic, cultural and historical heritage. Exciting events include the search for the “Hiyas sa Kadayawan”, the festival symbol who represents the tribal communities of Davao City, showcase of Mindanawon fashion and floral arts, river festival, indigenous music exhibition, dance competitions, trade fair, food and music parties, street dancing, and floral float parade..
Date: Every 3rd week of August
Photo by Belarminoed


Summer time is among the best period to head to Davao. It is said to be “typhoon-free” but it cannot escape rainfalls though they are not really as bad as the rest of the regions. It is advisable to visit the city during cold seasons if you prefer the cool breeze over sweaty sightseeing. Moreover, if you would like to experience how Dabawenyos celebrate their festivals, you might want to go there around the 3rd week of August as this is when they have a week-long celebration for the Kadayawan Festival.

Caramoan


Caramoan Peninsula National Park is located in the town of Caramoan, a sleepy and remote town of Camarines Sur. The peninsula barely received any attention outside of Camarines Sur until it was used as a setting for an edition of Survivor France, a franchise of that wildly popular reality TV show Survivor based in the United States. Since then, Survivor Israel, Bulgaria and Serbia followed suit and used the same location for their own Survivor franchises. The media then turned their sights on this erstwhile forgotten corner of Bicol and coupled with an aggressive tourism marketing campaign by the provincial government of Camarines Sur – Caramoan Peninsula is now high on many Filipino travelers’ lists of must go destinations.

Philippines Caramoan Natioanl Park
Caramoan Peninsula National Park
Photo by YTK23
In 1867, Franciscan Missionary Fray Francisco dela Cruz y Oropesa penetrated the dense forests of Caramoan Peninsula and probably liked what he saw there as he founded a Christian settlement in a place called Balwarte. This settlement was turned over to the Sagrada Mitra in 1696 for administration and a chapel was built out of nipa, bamboos and wood. The settlement grew into a bigger community which is now called as Caramoan which was apparently derived from a sea turtle abounding in the area at the time and which the local inhabitants called “Carahan.”
The chapel underwent several repairs and renovations and after almost 200 years, a permanent building was finally constructed made out of adobe, local stones and clay. The church was basically constructed out of slave labor under the direction of well-known artisans and masons. The current building withstood the ravages of time, as well as natural calamities such as typhoons and earthquakes as well as the challenges of the last World War.
Philippines Caramoan Church
Caramoan Church

Fast forward to present day Caramoan reveals a town still trying to adjust to the sudden deluge of tourists and travelers to the area trying to get to the much-vaunted islands off the coast. There are two main island groups off the Peninsula. The south islands (nearer to the province of Catanduanes) are composed, amongst others, of the most popular Matukad Island (with the islet lake on top with a rumored huge fish living in its waters), Lajos/Lahus Island, Hunungan Island, Gota Island (different from Gota Beach which is across it), and of course further away is Tinago (a cove with three small white sand beaches) and whose topography is strongly reminiscent of Coron Island in Palawan. The triangular shaped cream-colored sandy beach of Sabitang Laya Island (and the coral beach of Tagas Island) meanwhile, is just about a third of the way to another set islands in the north which include Cotivas, Lahuy, Pitogo, and Minalahos Islands amongst others. However, some of these islands are closed off to the public whenever there is ongoing filming of any of the Survivor franchises. We were lucky to have met some of the eliminated contestants of the Survivor Serbia edition and even had the chance to share a few bites of a Serbian dish made by one of the contestants.

Philippines Caramoan Natioanl Park, Rock Formations at Sabitang Laya Island
Rock Formations at Sabitang Laya Island
Photo by Dave Ryan
Sea kayaking, island hopping, rock-climbing, trekking, spelunking, snorkeling and camping are some of the most popular activities in the peninsula. However, challenges remain for the traveler and the local community as well. When we went there, Caramoan town had the feel of a shell-shocked town and whilst they were extremely helpful and friendly, you can definitely sense a reluctant vibe with the sudden rush of tourists to this peninsula. And we can fully understand why, mass tourism is an ugly and destructive form of tourism with travel agencies trying to cash in with this sudden interest in the area by sending heaps of tourists to Caramoan.
Having said that, tourism infrastructure in Caramoan is minimal to almost nonexistent. The roads are mostly dirt and gravel with some areas paved. Houses were hastily turned into inns and there seems to be no close coordination with the provincial government and the local government of Caramoan in anticipating the massive influx of tourists in the peninsula. From our sources in Bicol, the people of Caramoan were not too happy with this tourism phenomenon, considering it as a threat to their culture and laid back lifestyle as well as the local environment. Already we were seeing the reality of these threats – we saw vandalism on the surface of what would have been beautiful rock formations on Matukad Island, and we saw broken glass and pieces of garbage at Hunungan and Sabitang Laya. While what we found was largely manageable, we noticed that there were no sentries guarding or maintaining the national park. This problem should be addressed as soon as possible while it is still small and manageable.
You can also go spelunking at the national park in Omang Cave, Manipis Cave and Culapnitan Cave.

Philippines Caramoan Natioanl Park At Tinago
At Tinago
Photo by Dave Ryan

Philippines Caramoan Natioanl Park, Quirky rock formation
One of the quirky looking formations in Caramoan
Photo by Dave Ryan

Why Not Go


Skip Caramoan Peninsula when there is another Survivor filming as some of the islands will be closed off to the public. We heard from locals that the Survivor has a four year franchise set to end around next year at the earliest with Survivor USA apparently filming there..

Philippines Caramoan Natioanl Park, One of the boats used in the challenges for the reality show Survivor

Why Go


Caramoan Peninsula does give island hopping a new meaning and coming there gives a feeling of being away from it all. This beautiful National Park offers stunning views of the Pacific Ocean and its many islands seem to duplicate the equally gorgeous Calamianes in Northern Palawan (although we do think that Coron is still more beautiful).

Best Time to Visit


Head out to Caramoan Peninsula during weekdays. Never ever go there during long weekends or holidays as in some popular islands – there are a lot of people trying to do that annoying and kitschy travel photography fad called the group jump shot.

Pawikan Conservation


The ultimate patriots, the Pawikans (Filipino for Marine Turtles) return after 25-30 years and go back to where they were hatched to lay eggs. This cycle remained unbroken for ages until recently when these beautiful sea animals have become highly threatened for extinction, due to poaching and hunting- their numbers are alarmingly dwindling. The time is now to take action. Read on and learn how you or your organization can help.
Philippines Pawikan Conservation Center
About 4 hours away from Manila is the sleepy fishing village of Nagbalayong in the town of Morong on the Bataan Peninsula. Along a patch of sandy coastal road a tiny place fenced with aged bamboo and a driftwood sign with the name Pawikan Conservation Center written on it greeted us. The coastline where Pawikan Conservation Centre sits is home to the original nesting sites of the Olive Ridley turtle species. We were greeted by Mr Manolo Ibias one of the center’s leaders, who is a former poacher himself but now one of the staunchest defenders of the pawikans. We were then introduced to a gathering of some of the volunteers having after dinner rounds of local whiskey mixed with congenial and spirited conversations about the challenges of turtle conservation, community development and environmental protection. And thus, counting the hours away before we would join them doing night patrolling the beaches, we listened to their stories.

Philippines Pawikan
The Pawikan
Photo by Racaza
Called as Pawikans in most local dialects in the Philippines, the marine turtles are reptiles related to snakes, lizards and dinosaurs. Being cold-blooded creatures, their body temperatures fluctuate with the environment and they have a pair of lungs that need to breathe every few minutes while swimming unknown distances in the vast seas. Marine turtles have powerful flippers which help the pawikans navigate but cannot retract into their protective shells called carapace which sets them apart from their freshwater relatives that can easily hide their heads and legs inside their bony shells.
Most marine turtles (especially the male ones) spend their entire lives at sea while the females come to their nesting beach during the coldest months of the year to lay their eggs (which look and feel like soft and leathery ping-pong balls). If the clutch of eggs is lucky enough not to be eaten by many predatory animals like lizards, crabs or taken by poachers, these eggs will hatch after 40-60 days depending on the temperature of the sand. The volunteers and Department of Environment Natural Resources (DENR) regularly patrol the beaches at night (as this is the time when turtles lay their eggs) to gather them and bring them to the centre’s hatchery where they are more protected until they hatch and are subsequently released back into the sea.

Philippines Pawikan Conservation Turtle eggs being buried in sand at the Bantay Pawikan Hatchery
Turtle eggs being buried in sand at the Bantay Pawikan Hatchery
Photo by Dave Ryan
During the Pawikan Festival which is usually held every end of November, involves the release of these super cute baby turtles racing into the sea where they will feed, grow and explore the vast oceans only to return one day back to the beaches where they were hatched when they are ready to lat their own eggs. However, this would have been a perfect scenario if not for the years and years of poaching and gathering of eggs and killing these gentle creatures for meat as a staple for the people of these coastal villages – not only in Nagbalayong in Morong, Bataan but all throughout the world. Likewise, the shells and skins have been used for many illegal by-products like combs, guitars and other ornaments. It is no secret as well that a lot of the Taiwanese, Vietnamese and Chinese regularly poach in Philippine waters and they do so with so much impunity. Sadly, such activities have received a lukewarm response from the Philippine government like the case a few years ago where a boatload of Chinese fishermen were caught entering Philippine waters illegally and fishing in the protected and UNESCO World Heritage area – the Tubbataha Reef. Because of severe pressure from powerful Beijing, these criminals were released with nary a punishment or even an outcry. Next time you sit down in a restaurant in Hong Kong or wherever around the world- remember that the turtle soup or the sharks fin soup that you are having for dinner meant that you are part and complicit in the tacit rape and murder not only of Philippine seas but our Mother Nature as well. With the survival of these creatures already challenged with a lot of these turtles falling prey to birds, crabs, sharks and many other natural predators, the thought of someone having turtle eggs for their misconceived aphrodisiac is just totally sickening.

Philippines Pawikan Conservation Bantay Pawikan Inc.
Because of this only 1-3% of baby turtles ever reach maturity. Since 1999 when a Bataan community organization called Bantay Pawikan Inc. (a duly registered people’s organization) was initiated in the town of Morong with just 28 men composed of former egg poachers and sellers, over 40,000 turtles were successfully released into the sea. The program was met with opposition at first, with the local community thinking that this was one of Manila’s antics of taking over their community. Gradually, people were able to realize that this was a valid initiative and that the turtles are one of the major lynchpins in the entire ecological cycle. Soon enough, with the help of the provincial government of Bataan (which I say is doing an awesome job initiating environmentally friendly tourism projects) as well as the United Nations, Pawikan Conservation Unit of the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and the Philippine Rural Reconstruction Movement, other communities and groups in neighboring towns followed suit and replicated the conservation efforts.
Today, many challenges remain, though never insurmountable. The group still needs a regular veterinarian, and the costs of medicines for rescued turtles as well as maintenance of the center which could use a facelift. There is also a need for increased support to the communities through better access to livelihood programs and better education for its populace. I hope that by raising awareness about the plight of these marine turtles as well as the communities that protect them, everyone could take positive action and help out in preserving not only the pawikans, or our national marine heritage, but our environment as well.

Philippines Pawikan Conservation
A very sick turtle which is a recent rescue
Photo by Dave Ryan