La Union

La Union, with its fine coastline that faces the South China Sea and its beautiful gardens, fell way behind in tourism after more popular tourist destinations like the Hundred Islands in Pangasinan, Palawan, Batangas, and Boracay gained more prominence in the past 10 years. Long before that, local tourists and American military servicemen from the nearby Wallace Air Station (which has now been converted into a business and industrial area to facilitate the economic activity in the region – with service, manufacturing, shipping, and agricultural areas spread all over La Union) trooped to the seedy beaches of Bauang for some good old rest and recreation (which is of course a euphemism for the prostitution boom) until 1991. And like the surrounding areas of the former US military bases in the Philippines like Subic and Clark – an unmistakable awkward vibe is felt in the air when discussions turn to anything that remotely mention the former American military presence in the area.

La Union

La Union, which is 6 hours north of Manila, was created by a Royal Decree issued by the Spanish Queen, Isabella, on 18 April 1854. The province was created from 9 towns of Pangasinan, 3 towns of Ilocos Sur and the villages of Eastern Pais del Igorotes that straddles the western foothills of the Cordilleras. The name of the province was, thus, derived from the union of these towns from the different provinces. Before the Spaniards came in 1572, La Union was already a bustling and important trading port, especially for gold, with Chinese and Japanese merchants present in the area.

The province made a big comeback though and literally made a big splash in the local and international surfing community as it is now one of the favored surfing sites in the Philippines after Siargao in Mindanao. The friendly swells of San Juan and Urbiztondo towns, with its equally amiable and well-established surfing community (surfing started in the ‘80s when foreigners started settling in these towns) is both best for the beginners with its beach breaks (San Juan Beach Break; Bacnotan with a right-hander) and reef breaks (a right-hander in Monaliza Point- popular among the locals, who can also be a bit territorial; Carille – features waves that can be up to 300 meters long and 15 foot high in best conditions) for the more advanced surfers and one of the most accessible surf spots if you are coming from Manila. There are two major surfing competitions – the Rimat Ti Amianan (Treasure of the North) in December, which is one of the important legs of the Philippine Surfing Federation Surf Circuit and draws top Filipino surfing talents, and the Mabuhay Longboarding Cup, an international surf event which is incidentally the longest running longboard competition in the Philippines.

San Juan Surf
Photo by tristanjohn

The Billabong Cup also has an annual surf competition here – where Luke Landrigan, the most famous amongst the bunch rules the roost and one is of the co-founders of the United Pinoy Surfers. His Dad, Brian Landrigan, actually was among those credited of piquing the interests of the locals when he was amongst the first people to start catching the waves in this area in the early ‘80s. Luke eventually settled in the area and established the San Juan Surf Resort.

If you are a beginner surfer or simply want to learn the ropes of this fast-rising sport in the Philippine sporting scene – contact either Pj Valenciano (+63.9217.8607193), Yna Lozada (+63.917.8827583), Donna Valenciano (+63.917.8059011) or Gerard de Sagun (+63.927.7905149) of He’e Nalu Surfing Pinas. They organize surf camps to San Juan as well as in many other surf destinations in the Philippines like Baler in Aurora Province (Pacific Coast) and you can get taught to catch that wave by topnotch Philippine surfers themselves. Top surfers Daisy Valdes and Jefferson de la Torre had a lot of patience teaching us the basics of surfing and helping us to paddle out into the seas. Usually, you should be able to stand on the board and catch the wave in about 15 minutes (well, I guess I am a relatively fast learner – heh!). He’e Nalu Surfing Pinas is also the only surf group actively involved with the beach clean up.

If you plan to head out, please check with the group or with the Philippine Surfing Federation regarding the weather, and wave conditions. In some cases, the swells are not very reliable. San Juan Surf resort has a live cam feed, although it seems that it is not as updated as one would want and Global Surfari has a surf forecast resort (although this cannot be independently verified).

With the rise of La Union as an important surfing destination, comes the problem of waste. Good thing that Green Zinc Clean Shores spearheaded by Chris Sullivan, a non-profit organization aimed at protecting Philippine beaches, has started raising awareness not only amongst locals but with visiting surfers as well. In San Juan, a typical surf camp usually starts with a talk from one of the founders – Uffe Konig. Green Zinc also organize volunteers in beach cleanups – if you go to one of the surf camps – a beach cleanup is usually included in the itinerary – a sort of giving back to the community for every stoke that one experiences in its rolling surfs.

Aside from surfing, La Union is also known for its Botanical Gardens in San Fernando City which showcases different pavilions in its sprawling ten-hectare facility -a Fernery, Palmery, Fragrance Garden, Sunken Garden, Evergreen Garden, Arid Paradise, and a Shade Garden – with flora and fauna that are indigenous only to the Philippines. This offers a welcome respite from the humid and sometimes searing hot weather of the province.

A beautiful Taoist Temple is another important tourist attraction in the province. Ma-Cho Temple, is located on a hill 70 feet above the sea level and offers commanding views of the bay. Coming from Manila, it is situated on your right, after you basically leave the San Fernando city centre on your way to San Juan. It was constructed on 11 September 1975 through the joint efforts of the local Chinese community. Ma-Cho, a revered Chinese deity was said to be born in 960 AD during the Sung Dynasty and according to a legend, she actively participated in the rescue operations of distressed fishermen, thus earning herself the titles, “Goddess of the Sea” and “Queen of Heaven” amongst others. The eight inch wooden statue has a striking similarity meanwhile to the “Virgin of Caysasay” who is enshrined at the Basilica of San Martin in Taal, Batangas and devotees believe that the two are one and the same. From 20th to 26th of September of each year, devotees and pilgrims gather for the annual celebration of enshrinement for a pilgrimage to the Basilica of Saint Martin in Taal, Batangas and from there, the devotees together with the image of Ma-Cho will travel back to San Fernando City and then a procession follows around the city centre. Similar temples can also be found in Malaysia, Taiwan, Singapore and many other countries with a sizable Chinese community (which basically goes without saying that they are everywhere).

For Catholics, La Union offers aged churches namely- Basilica of Our Lady of Charity (1578), Our Lady of Namacpacan (1600s-1800s), St. William Cathedral (1764), Sts. Peter and Paul Parish (1587), St. Michael the Archangel (1817) and St. John the Baptist (1707) and St. Christopher Parish (1696) – the only church in the Philippines with three belfries. Other attractions include the Balay Anito Falls which means House of Spirits, 4-5 kilometers from the main town of Santol. Apparently in early times, locals saw a ball of fire on this waterfall and thought these were spirits or “anitos” and “balay” means house, thus, the name. Lon-oy Springs in San Gabriel, La Union which consists of numerous natural springs, deep waterfalls and clear waters – Bakes Swimming Pool gets its water supply from these springs. Can’t make it to the rice terraces of Banawe or Sagada? The rice fields of Bolikewkew, Delles and Burgos provide a sneak peek of the big ones and serves as a hiking and trekking alternative. The Arosip Ecotrail reveals several waterfalls such as the Zim-zum-ug Twin Falls (one of the falls dried out as waters was redirected to the rice fields), Tekdag-aso Falls, and Padtok Falls.

Why Not Go

If you are looking for picture-perfect white sand beaches like Boracay (although there is a decent beach in San Juan and at Poro Point) or the rugged, misty mountain town of Sagada, then better pack your bags to those destinations – La Union does not have that.

Why Go

Need a surfing fix close to Manila? La Union is one of the best choices for you. The laidback and friendly surfing communities in these parts are some of the most chilled and relaxed weekend sports getaways in this part of Luzon Island.

Best Time to Visit

If you plan to go to surf – the North Swell usually starts around October until March (although beware as well, because this time is also notorious as being the jellyfish season and a lot of surfers get stung); while the South Swell arrives around late May to June until August. To catch better waves, check out the Philippine weather forecast by Philippine Atmospheric, Geophysical & Astronomical Services Administration – and for seasoned surfers, best time to ride the waves is when there are typhoons around the area. For other sites in La Union, it is best enjoyed during the dry season.

Dumaguete

Dumaguete is the “city of gentle people.” It is where you can still find tree-lined streets, with motorcycles, not cars and taxis, dominating the road. Everything about it is simple and serene- from its people to the various places surrounding the city. It is located in Negros Oriental, opposite Bacolod City. A University town where you can see more students than working professionals, Dumaguete is among the most peaceful and clean cities in the Visayas.

Every time one would visit Dumaguete, there is always that longing to come back again. You can actually breathe in clean and fresh air- something you can hardly experience when you are in busy cities in the country.

Why Not Go

I cannot think of any reason why anyone would regret going to Dumaguete. Perhaps if you prefer the hustle and bustle of busy streets and fast-paced living then probably, you will not enjoy the quietness of this little city.

Why Go

When a person wants a place to relax, it is always a good excuse to go to Dumaguete. A place where everything is accessible even by foot, it provides convenience to visitors- you can just walk to the mall, church, hotel and market. Moreover, Dumaguete is very close to beautiful dive sites and lovely islands that are most ideal for honeymooners or simply for people who want to have some fun in the sun. Plus, it is always nice to know that almost everything in Dumaguete is inexpensive, from accommodation to food, you can go there regardless of how much your budget is. Laid-back living, fun, convenience and affordability are what will want to make people visit this city.

Best Time to Visit

November would be a good time to go, specifically around the 3rd to 4th week of the month because this is when the city celebrates its most anticipated fiesta in honor of their patron saint, Sta. Catalina de Alexandria. This is always celebrated with grandeur, complete with parades, shows and carnivals. Most homes would always prepare a sumptuous celebration for 2-3 days. You might want to book your hotel ahead though as they are mostly full during this time.

One of the nicest places we’ve stayed in is at Sta. Monica Beach Resort in Banilad. It is about 10 minutes from the center of the city, complete with a swimming pool, sea view and a big garden. Rates start at $38 for air-conditioned rooms. You can also stay at Bethel Guesthouse right along Rizal Boulevard, which is where everything is. Rates for their standard rooms start at $19. Now if you are on a tight budget, there are clean rooms available at pension houses such as Hotel Palwa (it’s a pension house, not a hotel) which can be as low as $8 a night.


Where & What to Eat


You can eat your lunch at City Burger located at Perdices Street. They have the best “chicken inasal” in the city.

Then proceed to the most popular dessert place called Sans Rival at San Jose Street. Everybody goes there for their Sylvannas and Sans Rival but personally, I like their tiramisu best.

Dinner should be at Lab-as where you can sample fresh sea foods. They offer Sutukil, a set meal with grilled fish, fish soup and raw fish soaked in vinegar and herbs. They also have a soup specialty on the menu called “boullabaise” which tastes really great.


Nightlife

The place to be to have fun at night would be along the Boulevard where you can find a few bars and pubs. You can go to Y Not Bar and Gimmick. However, a lot of people go there not just to have some beer but also to just sit down and admire the beautiful sea view and enjoy the cool breeze.

My to do List

• First off, you should see the renowned Silliman University. It is one of the oldest schools in the country and is among the biggest too.

• Then you can stop by the city’s age-old cathedral named after their patron saint, Sta. Catalina de Alexandria (or St. Catherine of Alexandria) built in the 17th century. It is a very prominent landmark in the city. Adjacent to it is the old belfry which was used as a siege tower during the Spanish colony.

Dumaguete Belfry: Used as a watchtower during the 19th Century to warn the inhabitants (by ringing the bells) of the then small fishing village of impending raids by marauding pirates from the south of the islands. From its top can be seen the island of Mindanao on the horizon (now obscured by trees and buildings).These raids were so rampant in the area during those times that this little fishing village came to be known as “Dumagit” or “Dagit” which means “kidnap” in the local Cebuano language. The Spanish authorities later adopted and restructured or “hispanized” the name to “Dumaguete”.
Photo by baktincorporation

• Next, go see Mountain Camp in Valencia which is about 20 minutes from Dumaguete. There you will be surrounded with Nature, literally- what with tall trees and cold springs around. Entrance fee is about $1.25 per person.

• If you like to play golf, you should check out Bravo Golf Resort at Sibulan, which is about 15 minutes from the city limits. It is very secluded; they have a 9-hole golf course at very cheap rates. You should also know that they have a hotel and 3 huge infinity pools, plus the best Italian food in Dumaguete!

• You can also find one of the top 10 diving sites in the country- Apo Island. You can take a 35-minute boat ride to get there from the city.

Apo island is an important migratory route for whales and dolphins and home to the first community-run marine sanctuary which has been protected since 1982. The spectacular diversity of species and dive sites available here is proof that the community approach to coastal resource management works; at Apo island, you get to see enormous, silvery schools of jacks (a species related to tuna), endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles, Napoleon wrasse, bumphead parrotfish, brilliantly colored soft coral gardens with thousands of fluttering clown fish, and at certain times of the year thresher sharks have also even been sighted.

• You can also avail of ATV rentals from various places in Dumaguete such as the Atlantis Resort. Experience dirt road driving with these vehicles for as low as $30.

• If you like to explore some more, you can go to Bais City which is about an hour and a half’s drive away from Dumaguete. Here you can go dolphin and whale watching for just $25 (group).

• The magical island of Siquijor is also within a short trip from Dumaguete, and makes an excellent overnight trip – ideal for scuba diving and snorkeling. Trekking and spelunking is also highly recommended on Siguijor!

The beautiful city of Davao is surrounded by picture-perfect landscapes. Also known as Dabaw, it is the biggest metropolis in the Philippines in terms of land area. It is also among the country’s most progressive places, yet living there would still afford you the luxury of living in the countryside; thus it is dubbed as the “city of two worlds.”

Davao is in the southern part of Mindanao and is in the same island as Cagayan de Oro, Iligan and Bukidnon.

“Durian, the king of fruits, has a special place in the hearts of Davaoenos. It is, after all, one of the greatest attractions of Davao City, luring thousands of visitors to come see these shores to experience the fruit that, some say, “tastes like heaven but smells like hell.” But more than just an attraction, the durian is a delight to the Davaoenos, especially to the lumad community who were surely the first to enjoy it. It is also a “thorny” reminder that there is much to be thankful for in this land. The abundance of nature is never more obvious than during durian season, when the streets overflow with the fruit and locals can be found squatting on the sidewalk to enjoy a simple — truly incomparable — feast.”

Durian

These words are etched on a tablet, underneath the Durian Eaters Statue, which is found in a favorite hang-out overlooking Davao City. Durian is closely associated with Davao (unfortunately, we didn’t have the chance to eat Durian while in Davao), although it’s not  confined in Davao alone — the first time I ate Durian, I was somewhere between Iligan City and Marawi City. We simply parked beside the road, bought one Durian each, then ate with bare hands. No one noticed, or said a thing, about the alleged smell on our way back to the hotel. It tastes good, I must say. But then again, that’s just my opinion. (Photo courtesy of Wikipedia)Why Not Go

If you want to experience all night fun in street parties, this might not be the perfect place for you to visit. Although there are a number of nice bars in Davao, night life is not a big thing in this city as people prefer to go to parks and farms instead.

Why Go

Pearl Farm @ Samal Island – A coastal paradise located at the heart of Davao Gulf. A haven to those seeking solace in an unspoiled and natural ambience and to those who are in quest for great adventure and extreme challenges with nature. It’s white and pristine beaches and diverse natural attractions combined with the warmth and hospitality of its people spell out its potential to be a world class ecotourism destination in this part of Southern Mindanao.
Photo by Jokojun

Davao is one of the must-see places in the Philippines because it has so much to offer its visitors. From the island treasure known as Pearl Farm in Samal island to the nature trips in its vast collection of farms, mountains, volcanoes and plantations, Davao makes for one very interesting city. It is also noteworthy to know that up to this day, you will still find a very diverse community here, with ethnic tribes and modern people coexisting harmoniously. Thus, you will often find a wide array of arts and crafts such as hand-woven cloths and ethnic beads being sold in market stands.

Best Time to Visit

The Kadayawan is a celebration of thanksgiving for the gifts of nature, the wealth of culture, the bounties of harvest and serenity of living. The festival pays tribute to Davao’s artistic, cultural and historical heritage. Exciting events include the search for the “Hiyas sa Kadayawan”, the festival symbol who represents the tribal communities of Davao City, showcase of Mindanawon fashion and floral arts, river festival, indigenous music exhibition, dance competitions, trade fair, food and music parties, street dancing, and floral float parade..
Date: Every 3rd week of August
Photo by Belarminoed

Summer time is among the best period to head to Davao. It is said to be “typhoon-free” but it cannot escape rainfalls though they are not really as bad as the rest of the regions. It is advisable to visit the city during cold seasons if you prefer the cool breeze over sweaty sightseeing. Moreover, if you would like to experience how Dabawenyos celebrate their festivals, you might want to go there around the 3rd week of August as this is when they have a week-long celebration for the Kadayawan Festival.

Banton Island

Banton Island is a rocky volcanic island situated in the Maghali Island Group of Romblon Province, around 7-12 hours south of Manila. This island municipality of more than 6,000 people is surrounded by the Sibuyan Sea which boasts one of the most preserved marine life in the Philippines.

The island was originally named Batoon due to its rocky coastline and topography. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, an ancient civilization has already existed in the island as suggested by the various artifacts recovered from the island’s caves in 1936. One of the artifacts is a boat coffin with a well-preserved mummy and burial cloth. The burial cloth is reportedly the oldest in Southeast Asia.

The island municipality is also one of the oldest in the Philippines, having been established as a town under Spanish rule in 1622. The Spanish built a fort called Fuerza de San Jose and a church in honor of San Nicolas de Tolentino, all of which were built under the supervision of a Spanish captain and priest, Padre Agustin San Pedro. The fortifications protected the town from recurring raids from Muslim pirates which used to infest the country’s waters.

Today, the island municipality is known for fishing, copra farming and various cottage industries but it also has lots of potential for tourism and development. The town of has a newly expanded ferry port and seawall that caters to interisland ferries and motorized boats that regularly plies the Sibuyan Sea. The town features numerous Spanish era houses and fortifications. One example is the aforementioned Fuerza de San Jose and the Ugat Faigao Museum and Ancestral House. The roads are narrow yet concrete and the only mode of transportation are the numerous passenger motorcycles called habal-habal which carry people and goods around the island. Due to its distance to the main island of Romblon and to the Luzon mainland, electricity in the island is an issue as it only lasts from late afternoon to around midnight. In recent years, cellular phone service from Smart Telecom and Globe Telecom became available in the island. A public satellite phone service is also available in the island.

The island municipality has its own language called Asi or Bantoanon. Majority of the islanders speak the local language but they also capable in communicating in Filipino and English. If you wis to learn basic Asi you can report to the Asi Studies Center for Culture and the Arts along Fortunato Fadriquela street.

Scattered along the island’s coastline are various white sand and coral beaches like Macat-ang Beach and Mainit Beach both in Barangay Mainit, the farthest barangay of the municipality. Macat-ang Beach offers cottages, huts and beach umbrellas for beach lovers and features a lovely view of Bantoncillo Island, an islet approximately two miles from the beach. Mainit Beach, meanwhile, has a longer coastline and boasts hot springs in the middle of the sea. Tourists and locals alike can bathe in the lukewarm water produced in the area. Other beaches include Tabonan Beach (located in an inhabited island a few meters from the island and famous for its fine golden sands), Siocan Beach (opposite Tabonan Beach and accessible only by boat) and Recodo Beach in Barangay Banice.

Spelunking enthusiasts might find Banton Island exciting as it is also rich in caves filled with history and culture. Among the many caves in the island are Ipot Cave in the Guyangan Cliffs where prehistoric artifacts were found in 1936 (now displayed at the National Museum in Manila) and the Silak Cave in Barangay Togbongan.

Banton Island was also cited in the book “Diving the Philippines and Southeast Asia” by Heneage Mitchell as one of the best diving sites in the country. Some of the diving sites in the island he noted are the island’s West Side, the Northeast Wall (just off the Moro Caves) and the Dos Hermanas Islands (two inhabited islands several kilometers northwest of the island). Unfortunately, diving enthusiasts have to bring their own equipment as the island has no diving facilities.

In a country which hosts various festivals everyday, Banton Island cannot be spared. The island hosts two festivals: the Sanrokan Festival during the Lenten Season and the Biniray Festival on September 10.

Sanrokan Festival

The Sanrokan Festival showcases the local tradition of sharing food, especially viand, among neighbors and starts from Black Saturday up to Easter Sunday. In the weeks leading to these days, preparations are made through the decorating of the town’s streets with colorful banderitas. Palm bouquets are hung on the four stone towers leading to the Church of San Nicolas de Tolentino. There are two phases to the Sanrokan Festival: the Sanrokan sa Barangay (sharing of food in the villages) and the Sanrokan sa Poblacion (sharing of food at the town proper). Sanrokan sa Barangay begins on Black Saturday in a venue set by the local village chieftains. It is here that families bring over their prepared assortment of viands to be shared with their neighbors. A boodle fight emerges as the feast begins. Parlor games such as chasing the pig, palosebo (climbing a greased bamboo pole to claim a prize) and the likes accompany the celebrations. The Sanrokan sa Poblacion, meanwhile, happens at Easter Sunday. It starts with the traditional Easter Sunday mass at the Church of San Nicolas de Tolentino. This is followed by the Hanrumanan (meaning souvenir/legacy) street dancing and parade. Various villages prepare tribal dances to be presented at the main street of the town. This is different from other festivals in the country like the Ati-atihan and the Masskara Festivals as it highlights local traditions and practices. After the parade, families join together at the Sanrokan venue to share the food they have brought along with them. At night, there is also the so-called Sanrokan Night, an event which includes contests that shows off the talent of many Bantoanons. Singing and dance contest are what usually pays off and cheers the crowd. This is followed by a public dance ball attended by both the young and the old in the town.

Biniray Festival

Meanwhile, the Biniray Festival is done in honor of the town’s patron saint, San Nicolas de Tolentino. According to legend, when the Muslims raid the various islands of the Visayas including Banton, the locals’ devotion to San Nicolas de Tolentino protected them from such attacks. One local folklore even explains the connection between San Nicolas de Tolentino and the island’s rocky coastline. It is said that the rocks used to be Muslim pirates turned to stone by an apparition of the saint thus thwarting their impending advance to the town. Every year, on the 10th of September, the entire island pays tribute and homage to San Nicolas de Tolentino’s role in enriching the faith and devotion of the locals to Catholicism. Holy mass is held in celebration of his feast day, followed by the parading of the image of San Nicolas de around town, accompanied by brass bands and devotees. This leads to a fluvial parade around the waters of the municipality, with each village giving homage to the image of the saint. The Bantoanon diaspora in the various provinces of Luzon like Cavite, Batangas, Laguna, Bulacan and Metro Manila also celebrate the Biniray in an agreed upon venue. A Sanrokan can accompany the Biniray Festival if the organizers wish so that neighbors can celebrate its patron saint’s feast day with a feast of food and drinks shared by the local people.

Pagudpud

Pagudpud, a town situated 1 and a half hours north of Laoag City, the provincial capital of Ilocos Norte, and about 10 hours by land from the Philippine capital Manila, is fast gaining fame in the international travel circuit staking its claim amongst the pretenders to the throne of having the best Philippine beach which unarguably is perennially held by Boracay in Aklan. But Boracay it is not, although it comes pretty close when it comes to sand quality, the clarity of its stunningly blue waters and the length and width of its beaches (other beaches in the Philippines do have white sand, but not as fine nor the beach as long nor wide). But whilst Boracay caters to the to the party scene and its extensive range of island activities, Pagudpud derives its charm from exactly the opposite of that – even on a long weekend, the beaches of Maira-ira, Saud and Pansian rarely get the hordes of tourists that Boracay, Panglao (Bohol), and Puerto Galera (Oriental Mindoro) due to the town’s relative remoteness (although Easter Weekend is an apparent exception as told by our Korong-korong driver where the road to Maira-ira can get pretty clogged with traffic).

Pagudpud, the town, was still named as Tongotong which was then under the administrative control of the town of Bangui as being one of the barrios. And then just before the outbreak of World War II, a Batangas native, according to a local story, arrived in the area selling mosquito nets and blankets from house to house until he was totally exhausted. He sought shelter in one of the houses, hungry and tired, asking the owner of the house for a simple meal. After all had settled down, the owner asked the itinerant vendor for his purpose, and the guy, not understanding the local language merely replied, “Ako’y pagud na pagod na at ang sapatos ko’s pudpod,” in heavily Batangas-accented Tagalog meaning “I am very tired and my shoes are all worn out”. The reply became the byword of the Tongotong locals even though they themselves did not understand the meaning of what has been said. A few months later, a Bicolano (native of the Bicol Region of the Philippines) arrived to seek employment in one of the logging companies in the region (as apparently the area had thick, virgin forested mountains before and logging was still allowed by law). The guy, not knowing where the office of the company was located got off in Tongotong and asked one of the locals for the name of the place and he immediately replied, “Ako’y pagud na pagod na at ang sapatos ko’s pudpod,” as the bystander thought the man was a Tagalog and those were the only Tagalog words he knew. Our guy interpreted that the place might be called Pagud-pudpod. Tongotong became Pagud-pudpod and later shortened to Pagudpud.

But that was one story. The elders say that Pagudpud is an old Ilocano word which meant soft sandy soil “kuppuoy” a kadaratan. The majority of the population of its 20,385 residents is composed of Ilocanos, whilst a few are a collection of Apayaos, Bicolanos and Visayans.

Blue Lagoon

Pagudpud’s main attractions are of course its beautiful beaches, and unlike other pretenders to Boracay’s throne, Pagudpud has every reason to believe that it does rival Boracay’s spectacular sceneries. So much so, that international travelers started to sit up and take notice. Sunday Herald Sun of Australia ranked Saud Beach as Number 1 on its list of the top ten best, lesser-known beaches of Asia besting Thailand’s Ko Adang, Sri Lanka’s Bentota, and Cambodia’s Occheuteal among others.

Pagudpud has three different beaches actually – Maira-ira Point which is also known by its moniker, Blue Lagoon and the other name Malingay Cove (It is not a lagoon – it is more like a cove), Saud and Pansian – all white sand beaches. Pansian is the furthest of the three which is almost at the border of Cagayan province and rarely gets any visitors at all, if any. The two most popular are Maira-ira and Saud. Saud is where all the resorts are, and when we say that the waters off Saud are emerald-colored even during cloudy weather or when its waves are rough– we are not kidding you. The beach is long, palm-fringed and with less people and on a clear day, one can see the Bangui windmills in the distance. The waters can be rough and dangerous during the rainy season as Saud faces the open sea and the current can be very treacherous so adequate caution and common sense are very important.

Maira-ira meanwhile has a shorter beach but has calmer waters compared to Saud. Unlike Saud with sudden drops a few meters from the shore, Maira-ira boasts of a mostly gently sloping beach into the ocean. Maira-ira is more scenic as well, the beach forming a graceful arc, with some rock formations on the right end and the islets of Dos Hermanos (Two Brothers) that seem to be guarding the cove to the left end. The main annoyance is probably the irritating sound of banana-boats in Maira-ira and the presence of some trash which we think is more or less manageable. The local government of Pagudpud should start a daily clean-up and environmental education campaigns in the area to further minimize or possibly eliminate trash in Maira-ira. The Dos Hermanos islets, which can be reached by motorized boats off Maira-ra meanwhile pride themself with their caves, rock formations, and a smattering of colorful tropical fish. The best part of the Pagudpud beaches, rarely you will get any touts at all, one can actually lie down in some corner without being bothered by anyone selling crap – better watch out for a tiny herd of goats though, cute but otherwise mostly harmless.

Kabigan Falls
Photo by huno

Aside from the stunning beaches, Pagudpud offers a lot of other attractions as well. The waterfalls of Kabigan and Saguigui on Barangay Balaoi are quite dramatic. Kabigan Falls is 80 feet surrounded by lush forest and a concave basin and practically reminds us of those picturesque waterfalls of the jungles of the Caribbean while Saguigui Falls is a smaller waterfall and very hard to get to.

Not to be outdone, Bantay Abot Caves and Timmangtang Rock in Sitio Gaoa also in Barangay Balaoi are other interesting spots in the area. Bantay Abot means “a mountain with a hole” and sometimes called “the underground sea” as there is luxuriant greenery on top of the cave. Bantay Abot Caves had a hole in the middle of the mountains where the waves crashed until it was wrecked in a massive tremor in the ‘80s. Inside the cave is a church where one can hear the echoing sound of the waves, hear the swallows that swarm in the late afternoon and other birds chirp freely. The shore of the caves has white sand mixed with shells and rocks and has quite a great view of the sea and the rugged mountains.

A few meters away is the Timmangtang Rock, a bell-shaped rock covered with vegetation and with the Bantay Abot Caves is collectively named as “Lover’s Rock” with Bantay Abot being the female and Timmangtang as the male – possibly an obvious reference to the male and female nether regions, hey?

Still on Sitio Gaoa, a panoramic view of the Pasaleng Bay, Maira-ira Point and on a clear day Babuyan Island way up north can be had at the Nacatnagan Cliff, 150 feet above sea level. As an Ilocano word meaning “fell down”, stories of Nacatnagan tell that in old times, two carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes) climbed the mountain and fell down the cliff, thus, its name. The cliff has an untouched forest teeming with wild animals, wild orchids and rare ferns along its slippery and steep slopes.

As mentioned in the Ilocos Norte article, the Patapat viaduct which is also considered as the 4th longest bridge in the Philippines, is a winding bridge hugging the cliffs of the Northern Cordillera Mountain Ranges which connects the barangays Balaoi and Pansian and is about 1.2 kilometers long. Dubbed as the “French Riviera of the North” for this breathtakingly beautiful coastal drive, one can pass by Mabugabog Falls, a source of power for the mini-hydroelectric plant. This pretty bridge features a blue sea and sea birds on one side and the beautiful mountains on one side. Can’t be any nicer than that!

If you need to get your adrenaline fix, shooting the rapids at Bolo River which divides the towns of Pagudpud and Bangui should get that blood pumping with its big boulders, and deep water in one of its portions in Barangays Dampig, Tarrag and Poblacion 1.

Every April, Pagudpud celebrates the Kangayedan Festival.

Batanes

After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown.

Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.

We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.

Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.

Batanes Lighthouse
Photo by xave

The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.

Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway.

Chavayan Heritage House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.

It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.

Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port 
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (http://batanestravel.com/), Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves.

The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.

Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.

Sabtang Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving (www.divebatanes.com/) is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.

Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach.