Zamboanga

To the older generations, Zamboanga city brings into mind the tree house in Pasonanca park (a natural park dubbed as the little Baguio of Zamboanga city because of its altitude and varying flora), the pink sand beach of Santa Cruz Island (one of only a few in the world), the sumptuous yet very affordable sea foods, Chabacano (which is the only Spanish Creole in Asia) and the mestizas. To the young ones though, Zamboanga city only brings terrorism into mind.
But while the mestizas are now only a part of the Alta Sociedad (since most of them have already migrated to different parts of the country and the world) and the Pasonanca Park is not as quaint and romantic as it used to be, Zamboanga city definitely still has a lot to offer. Named as Asia’s Latin city, one can definitely find traces of our colonial history in this city. From its airport, cuisine, edifices, customs, to its language, the extranjero would definitely feel as if he has traveled to the past.
The gateway to Asia’s Latin city is the Zamboanga international airport. This structure, although built for its obvious purpose has become a favorite among architecture enthusiasts. The unique design that the airport employs gives you a window to this city’s Islamic heritage.

ZAM, designed by a muslim architect
Photo by christinaestrada

In the city center, one can find more architectural wonders. The city center is reachable by a tricycle or a jeepney (NO TAXIS). A tricycle ride would cost anywhere from 30 pesos to 50 pesos depending where you came from. A good thing to remember is that all jeepneys in Zamboanga city go to the city center and fare costs anywhere from 7 pesos to 10 pesos. The Zamboanga city hall is the heart of the city center. Zamboanga’s city hall is unlike any ordinary city hall. It is an edifice constructed by the Americans during the early 1900s. The building’s turn of the century architecture is one that is generally favored by the American colonial governments for its tropical colonies. Just besides the city hall is the Plaza Pershing which has a hanging garden on its entrance. It is one of the earliest structures made of cement in Mindanao. The stretch of pavement from the city hall going to the Fort Pilar shrine is dotted with old houses and government offices resembling Calle Crisologo in Vigan. Founded in 1635, the Fort Pilar shrine was a Spanish garrison. Inside its walls is a museum which houses numerous paintings, ethnic costumes, marine life exhibits, indigenous tribes’ memorabilia, and some artifacts from a sunken galleon.

Inside the walls of the Fort Pilar
Photo by lutykuh

Archaic lamp posts and edifices along the stretch of road from the city hall going to the Fort Pilar shrine
Photo by Jerome Herrera

The unique city hall of Zamboanga city, adorned by thousands of lights during the Christmas season
Photo by lutykuh

Just a stone’s throw away from the shrine is the newly opened Paseo del Mar. The Paseo Del Mar resembles the bay walk along Manila bay offering locals a respite from the demands of everyday life. This spot is frequented by Zamboangueños at night because the sun can be a bit harsh in the mornings. I would suggest that you visit the Paseo del Mar on mid afternoons so that you can appreciate the vistas of nearby islands such as Basilan and Santa Cruz. Not to be missed as well is the famous Zamboanga sunset which can rival that of Manila Bay’s. As the park is still a bit new (it was opened during the third quarter of 2009), it may get crowded especially during weekends.

The famous Zamboanga sunset
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Still in the city center is the Metropolitan Cathedral of Immaculate Conception (referred to as ‘the cathedral’ by locals). Outside, the occasional tourist would think that it is a hotel or a mall because of its size and architecture. This common misconception arises from the fact that this cathedral is one of the most modern in Mindanao. The cathedral was built in a form of a crucifix and its façade was shaped after a candle.

A full view of the cathedral
Photo by Jerome Herrera

After all that sightseeing you might want to head to Pasonanca Park. Adorned with trees, flowers, shrubs, orchids, ferns, and a river, this park is truly unique. In the middle of it all is a tree house which was so famous in the 60s and 70s that when you mention the word tree house, Zamboanga city comes into mind immediately. Today though the quaint and cosy feel that the park used to have is gone. The small park has now been transformed to a huge park complex with three natural swimming pools (its water comes from the mountains), a flower garden, an aviary, and a butterfly farm. The surrounding area is known for its great dining and entertainment. The park, even transformed into something very modern and contemporary is still worth checking out though. Allot a full day in Pasonanca Park as it is a huge place. You might also want to pack food because there are not a lot of food stalls inside. The park is around 5 kilometres from the city proper. Tricycle fare would generally cost around 30 to 40 pesos and a jeepney ride would generally be at 7 pesos.

The cozy tree house in the Pasonanca Park
Photo by Jerome Herrera

Twenty five minutes away from the city center is the virgin Santa Cruz Islands, probably the biggest chance of Zamboanga city to tap into the mainstream tourism industry. Developing it however has been costly and a logistical nightmare as it is off the Zamboanga peninsula. The greater Santa Cruz Island boats of a pink sand beach and a sand bar. Yes you heard it right, pink sand. While the smaller Santa Cruz Island is a white sand beach which is a great diving spot. Do not expect hotels, restaurants, and resorts in this place though, the islands are practically deserted. The only way to get there is by using a boat which would cost 100 pesos (round trip). Pick up and drop off point is the Lantaka hotel.
There are numerous beach resorts located in mainland Zamboanga city though as the city‘s borders are virtually shorelines. I however would not recommend them because most are rocky and too commercial.

A typical rocky beach on mainland Zamboanga city
Photo by lutykuh3rd

The RT Lim Boulevard, which is a major thoroughfare as well as a beach
Photo by lutykuh3rd

There is a place in Zamboanga called ‘barter’ because there used to be a lot of barter activity in this area. The system was started by the great Ferdinand Marcos in a bid to appease the Moro rebels. Tax free products were exchanged between Malaysia and the Philippines. In the past, one can find Malaysian made products such as tea, coffee, candies, and malongs at rock bottom prices at the barter. Over time though (as Marcos was ousted), the barter system was ended. Today though, one can still find tax free Malaysian and Indonesian made products at cheap prices. Apparently, the second generation traders still continued the practice of selling products from Malaysia albeit no Philippine made products are ever sold in Malaysia as would have been the case in a barter system. As this place has been a frequent stop among tourists, you can also buy Zamboanga t-shirts and pearls from the barter. Don’t forget that this place is like a tiangge, so remember to haggle, haggle, and haggle!
Another great place to shop is the Yakan weaving center. This village is the home of the Yakan people; an ethnic tribe with special skills in weaving intricately designed traditional cloths on looms. These cloths are usually made into coasters, table covers, wall displays, bags, and purses. The yakan weaving center is about seven kilometers away from the city center and can usually be reached using a tricycle (40 pesos from the city center) or a jeepney (10 pesos from the city center).Note that these cloths are hand-woven, so they are a bit pricey.