Bataan

Mention Bataan and instantly what comes to mind are the horrors of the last World War, after all the infamous Bataan Death March which started in Bagac and Mariveles towns will forever be etched in the annals of world history where Filipino and American soldiers were forcibly marched. Of the 72,000 prisoners, only 54,000 reached their final destinations after enduring the most brutal conditions – while the exact count will never be determined, a lot of Filipino and American soldiers were beheaded, bayoneted, beaten by rifle butts, starved, and disembowelments were commonplace along the route which is now marked by stone markers. According to our Bataeño guides, Bataan locals, pitying the Allied soldiers, would sometimes create a commotion as a diversion so that soldiers would be able to make a dash to freedom and disappear in the crowd. Of course, like most places in the Philippines, there is more than what meets the eye.

Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by webzer

Occupying the entire Bataan Peninsula is the province of Bataan in the southwestern part of Central Luzon which faces the South China Sea and forms part of the enclosure of Manila Bay to the east. The peninsula is an extension of the rocky Zambales Mountains to the north and features Mt. Natib (1,253 meters) and the Mariveles Mountains, which includes probably the most distinguishable and most well known Bataan landmark Mt. Samat which is the location of the Dambana ng Kagitingan (Shrine of Valor) marker which commemorates the heroism and bravery as well as the horrors of the Bataan Death March.

The Historic Abucay Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Prior to World War 2, Bataan already had its share of a rather tumultuous history when in 1574 Chinese pirate Limahong used the province (Lusong Point) as a launch pad for his attempt to conquer Luzon (which was of course successfully thwarted). In 1647, the Dutch attempted the same where nearly 200 people were massacred mercilessly in the town of Abucay and over 40 (including the Alcalde Mayor and two Dominican priests) were taken as prisoners to the Dutch colony of Batavia. A plaque marker at the over four centuries-old Abucay Church (also known as St. Dominic’s Church) where the fierce battle was fought stands as a mute remembrance to the carnage in its courtyard hundreds of years ago. It was also in this church where the earliest printing presses in the Philippines began their operations. As early as 1810 Tomas Pinpin and Father Francisco Blancas de San Jose printed several books in Spanish and Tagalog. Abucay Church also features and ornately designed main door which features animals, a person and florid designs which immediately capture one’s attention. The Cathedral Parish of St. Joseph in Balanga meanwhile was used as an artillery emplacement during the Japanese invasion to bombard the Filipino and American forces who made their last stand on Mt. Samat.

The Dambana ng Kagitingan (Brgy. Diwa, Pilar) features a gigantic cross on top of a mountain (Mt. Samat) which seemed to be the silent sentinel of this peninsula. The shrine sits in an area of about 73,665 hectares and was completed and inaugurated in 1970 by then the late Philippine dictator Ferdinand Marcos. By the foot of this imposing Memorial Cross (which towers 555 meters above sea level) is the marble capped Colonnade which includes a stained glass mural behind the altar, 19 scriptural marble at the parapet. 2 bronze urns which symbolize the Eternal flame, 18 bronze insignias and its 18 flag poles with colors of USAFFE Divisions/Units, and several inscriptions of the Battle of Bataan. The cross itself is made of steel and reinforced concrete. It has an elevator and a viewing gallery located on the arms of the cross. From the base, the cross is at 92 meters while the arms are 74 meters from the base. The elevator however does not work all the time as we found out ourselves when we got there, if it is so happens that the electricity conks out while you are at the viewing gallery, you have no other option but to use the stairs coming down. Around the base of the cross are sculptural slabs and sculptural bas-reliefs “Nabiag na Bato” which portray significant historical events and battles by National Artist Napoleon Abueva. From the base of the Cross to the Collonade is a zigzagging footpath on the slope of the mountain and paved with bloodstones from nearby Corregidor Island.

Aside of course from the Dambana ng Kagitingan in Pilar, a lot of other significant historical markers dot the entire peninsula most of which refer to the significant events of World War 2 as well as other historical events. In the only landlocked town of Dinalupihan, one can find the First Line of Defense Marker, Hermosa has the Democracy and the Commemorative Markers, Orani has the Death March Marker, Abucay has the Main Battle Position Marker, Tomas Pinpin Monument and the Maria Canon Statue, Pilar has the Flaming Sword, and Battle Trail 2. Orion has the Cayetano Arellano Monument, Limay has the Alangan Marker, and Balanga City has the Surrender Site Marker (located inside the Balanga Elementary School where Maj. Gen. King formalized the surrender of the USAFFE forces in the Philippines to Lt. Gen. Homma), and the Fall of Bataan markers. Bagac town has the Battle of Toul pocket and the Philippine-Japanese Friendship marker. Both Bagac and Mariveles have the Zero Kilometer Death March markers (the Bataan Death March started at two points- Bagac and Mariveles). Meanwhile, the town of Morong which used to be refugee processing area for the Vietnamese boat people who were fleeing the Vietnam War has Vietnamese Shrines and Monuments dedicated to the erstwhile Philippine guests. The Philippines as a country has a long humanitarian tradition of accepting refugees from other countries from the Malay chieftains fleeing the iron-fisted rule of Sultan Makatunaw in Borneo to the Jewish people during Nazi occupation of Europe and from the Vietnamese boat people to the North Koreans using the Philippines as a transit country to South Korea.

Vietnamese Shrine in Morong, Bataan
Photo by chewychua

Far from just being stuck in the past, Bataan now is a hub of industry and a growing and important ecotourism destination. For its part, Balanga City, the capital, is becoming increasingly noticed in the international bird-watching circles with three known birding sites: the Sibacan-Lote Bird Site, Pto, Rivas Ibaba Bird Site and the Tortugas Bird Site, where we experienced birding for the first time. The entire peninsula lies in the path of the East Asian-Australian Flyway where massive numbers of birds undertake an annual exodus from north to south all around the world during the months of September to March of the following year to escape the harsh winters. As these birds travel, there are several requisite stops along the way, one of these many stops in the Philippines is Balanga where a huge number of water and forest birds from China, Japan, Siberia, Russia and Canada stop over at the wetland, and mangrove forests of the area. January 2009 saw Balanga top the annual Asian Waterbird Census in the Philippines conducted by the Department of Environment and Natural Resources and the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines with a whopping total of 15,271 waterfowl count. At least 35 species and 15 families were recorded flying this migration route.

It was quite refreshing to know that the local government unit in Bataan is actively involved in protecting the mangroves, the mudflats, grasslands and wetlands of the region. We spied a mangrove nursery in Tortugas while we were there, nets were also installed along the coasts to catch trash that washes out of Manila Bay. The local government of Bataan and the communities face an arduous and uphill battle, but so it seemed for us, the current crop of Bataan officials does have a great concern towards the environment. The best time to go birding is around 6:30AM-7:30AM in the morning, and make sure you bring with you a pretty good pair of binoculars. There is a little bit of development around the area with an observation deck being constructed in the area. The local government of Balanga is hoping to provide birders, students and tourists a nature walk, trail hiking jogging paths, camping, boat rides, and forest exposure experience in its sanctuaries. Being amateur birders as we are, we spotted egrets, herons and kingfishers during our brief yet exhilarating experience. Make sure you wear earth-tone colored shirts as loud colors may distract and drive away birds.

Bird-watching in Balanga
Photo by Dave Ryan

The Tortugas site which is also home to a coastal community whose main livelihood depends on fishing, and processing fish sauce and smoked fish is also an excellent feeding and roosting ground for Black Headed Gulls, Curlew Sandpipers, Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, Wood Sandpipers, Terek Sandpipers, Great Egrets, Asian Dowitcher, Common Kingfishers, Cattle Egrets, Sunbirds, Little Egrets, Whimbrels, Marsh Sandpipers, Black Crowned Night Heron, Rails, Shrikes, White Collared Kingfishers, White Winged Terns, Whiskered Terns, Chinese Egrets, Intermediate Egrets and many other shore birds.

Sibacan-Lote Site meanwhile is home to Fantails, Shrikes, Flycatchers, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Trillers, as well as the Asian Golden Plover, Redshanks, Greenshanks, Pacific Golden Plovers, Kentish Mongolian Plovers, Black Winged Stilts, and many other insect and flower feeding birds as well as several species of egrets.

Pto. Rivas Ibaba Bird Site is also a stopover meanwhile to Purple Herons, Brahminy Kites, Chestnut Checked Starlings, Wood Sandpipers, Grey Herons, Rufous Necked Stints, White Breasted Waterhens and even the fastest animal in the world was sighted here– the Peregrine Falcon!

Itching to try birding in Bataan? You may contact the helpful people of Balanga City Tourism Office (+63.47.7914008/ tourism@cityofbalanga.gov.ph/ www.balangabirds.com) or the Wild Bird Club of the Philippines (Joey Soriano – jotsoriano@yahoo.com).

The Pawikan
Photo by Racaza

Aside from the bird-watching, Bataan is also known for the Pawikan Conservation Center in Nagbalayong, Morong, Bataan where a community moves to protect sea turtles (locally known as Pawikan) nesting and hatching on its beaches. A community organization composed of former poachers, government agencies and volunteers make up the center which is still being run since it was first established in 1999 in stemming the tide of killing these gentle sea creatures where only 1-3% of the baby turtles ever reach maturity. The Pawikan Conservation Center faces a difficult task ahead of them due to the challenges of climate change as well as poaching by Chinese and Vietnamese fishermen and even Filipino fishermen in other parts of the country. This is aside from the perils that these turtles face from their natural predators such as sharks. To read more and know how to help – read my article on Pawikan Conservation here. We had a great time learning a lot about conservation while we were at the Pawikan Conservation Center and you can even join the group patrolling the beaches around midnight to watch out for turtles who come ashore to lay eggs. Make sure you bring a torch, and for beginners, we’d suggest you to take the easier beach patrol to the left of the sanctuary. Skip the part where you needed to take off your clothes to wade in some chest-deep water. I don’t think that would be very safe especially when you do it in the dead of the night.

The peninsula is also a very good place to do mountain biking with its many winding roads hugging the mountains and different terrains and gorgeous vistas along the way, Bataan holds a lot of promise in this area. We have seen a few mountain bikers in Bataan during our stay. Mountain climbing and trekking exists around the Orani-Morong area with the mountains of Sta. Rosa (800 meters), Natib (1,253 meters), Silanganan (910 meters), and the Bataan Peak (1,000 meters) compose the Bataan Natural Park. Near Mt. Natib are the Pasukulan Falls (Abucay) and the Pilis Falls (Samal). For sure, there are a lot of waterfalls that are still undiscovered in these mountains as well as in the mountains in southern part of the peninsula. Pantingan Peak (1,388 meters) in southeastern borders of Bagac, Mt. Limay (946 meters) in Limay, Mt. Bataan (1,362 meters), Tarak Peak (1,000 meters) and Mt. Mariveles 1,388 meters) offers more mountain climbing and trekking opportunities.

Make sure not to miss the Dunsulan falls near Mt Samat and Kairukan Falls in Morong as well if you have the time. Other beautiful waterfalls that exist in Bataan are the Marukduk Falls, Ambon-ambon Falls and Limutan Falls (Bagac), and Tukal Falls (Hermosa). Aside from the waterfalls, there are many ways to cool down in Bataan and one of which is the natural spring water swimming pools of Sibul Spring in Abucay where pools of varying sizes line the side of a tree-covered hill. The crystal clear waters come from a spring which feeds into the pools. Sibul Spring is a popular destination especially for locals during the scorching summer months and this is also where the best swimmers of the province hone their skills in time for the Philippine National Games. There are some open-air huts for rent as well. Unlike other resorts, we found Sibul pretty clean and dainty and perfect for a restful swim. The local government is currently sprucing up the place, and more amenities should be available for all its guests. As of this writing, overnight stays are still not allowed in Sibul. There is a staircase going up to the top of the hill where a statue of a Japanese goddess (we presume to be) was erected. The Maria Canon statue as it is called was erected for the repose of the souls of those who have fallen during World War 2, and for those who perished on the fields of Gabon, Abucay. It was built by Mie-kin Daichi Shichmucho of the Sohtahsih sect in September 1970.

There are other sports activities happening all around the province such as motocross (Pilar-Orion, Mariveles-Bagac), Mountain Biking (Mariveles, Bagac, Orion from November to April), Circuit Racing (Balanga), Airsoft war games (Pulong Bato, Orion), and Practical Shooting (BATAS Firing Range, Limay), Notable events are the Senakulo (Holy Week, Calaguiman, Samal), Bataan Day (April 9, Dambana ng Kagitingan/Shrine of Valor, Mt. Samat, Pilar), Banga Festival (Last Week of April, Balanga), Pawikan Festival (Last Week of November, Morong), Tagak Festival (November 24, Bagac) and the Paskuhan sa Mabatang (December 15 to January 6, Abucay).

A reproduction of an Escolta building at Ciudad Acuzar
Photo by Dave Ryan

The biggest surprise that we ever encountered in Bataan was the 400 hectare Ciudad Acuzar in the town of Bagac where a collection of Indio stilt houses, 18th century Principalia mansions, and stone houses stand. For those who are loyal followers of Philippine TV, the place would have been very familiar because it was where the Philippine version of Zorro was shot. Our jaws literally dropped and I almost screamed with delight when we entered the huge estate. Imagine abandoned and decaying centuries-old colonial houses from all over Luzon faithfully restored brick by brick, plank by plank, and laid out in clusters next to the sea. The streets were made of bricks as well with a tastefully done plaza at the center- just a spectacular study of Philippine colonial architecture that can probably put Vigan to shame (Vigan’s main advantage however was that the houses were all originally built in the same area as opposed to the relocation done with the houses in Ciudad Acuzar). An entire row of Escolta buildings were also recreated straight from an old photograph. Escolta was Manila’s former commercial center during its heyday (this was where the young and statuesque Imelda Romualdez became a saleslady before going on to be one of the most powerful women in the world).

Ciudad Acuzar was the brainchild of Mr. Jerry Acuzar, an architect and real estate magnate and plans are afoot to turn some of the buildings into a hotel and since the project wasn’t finished yet, we were among the first ones to ever see and enter the place. We were literally astounded about how gorgeous the newly restored houses were and wistfully thought how Manila could have looked the same had the last World War not come and ravaged the city. The Ciudad Acuzar project was also a testament in heritage conservation and paying more than lip service in restoring part of our past as a nation. Ciudad Acuzar is still off limits to the general public but should be open around December 2010.

Despite the association of Bataan with large industrial factories and the mothballed Bataan Nuclear Power Plant (that never opened), I say Bataan is on the right track in its massive efforts in environmental conservation done not only by the local communities but with its very able local government.

Dambana ng Kagitingan
Photo by Dave Ryan

Banton Island

Banton Island is a rocky volcanic island situated in the Maghali Island Group of Romblon Province, around 7-12 hours south of Manila. This island municipality of more than 6,000 people is surrounded by the Sibuyan Sea which boasts one of the most preserved marine life in the Philippines.

The island was originally named Batoon due to its rocky coastline and topography. Prior to the arrival of the Spanish, an ancient civilization has already existed in the island as suggested by the various artifacts recovered from the island’s caves in 1936. One of the artifacts is a boat coffin with a well-preserved mummy and burial cloth. The burial cloth is reportedly the oldest in Southeast Asia.

The island municipality is also one of the oldest in the Philippines, having been established as a town under Spanish rule in 1622. The Spanish built a fort called Fuerza de San Jose and a church in honor of San Nicolas de Tolentino, all of which were built under the supervision of a Spanish captain and priest, Padre Agustin San Pedro. The fortifications protected the town from recurring raids from Muslim pirates which used to infest the country’s waters.

Today, the island municipality is known for fishing, copra farming and various cottage industries but it also has lots of potential for tourism and development. The town of has a newly expanded ferry port and seawall that caters to interisland ferries and motorized boats that regularly plies the Sibuyan Sea. The town features numerous Spanish era houses and fortifications. One example is the aforementioned Fuerza de San Jose and the Ugat Faigao Museum and Ancestral House. The roads are narrow yet concrete and the only mode of transportation are the numerous passenger motorcycles called habal-habal which carry people and goods around the island. Due to its distance to the main island of Romblon and to the Luzon mainland, electricity in the island is an issue as it only lasts from late afternoon to around midnight. In recent years, cellular phone service from Smart Telecom and Globe Telecom became available in the island. A public satellite phone service is also available in the island.

The island municipality has its own language called Asi or Bantoanon. Majority of the islanders speak the local language but they also capable in communicating in Filipino and English. If you wis to learn basic Asi you can report to the Asi Studies Center for Culture and the Arts along Fortunato Fadriquela street.

Scattered along the island’s coastline are various white sand and coral beaches like Macat-ang Beach and Mainit Beach both in Barangay Mainit, the farthest barangay of the municipality. Macat-ang Beach offers cottages, huts and beach umbrellas for beach lovers and features a lovely view of Bantoncillo Island, an islet approximately two miles from the beach. Mainit Beach, meanwhile, has a longer coastline and boasts hot springs in the middle of the sea. Tourists and locals alike can bathe in the lukewarm water produced in the area. Other beaches include Tabonan Beach (located in an inhabited island a few meters from the island and famous for its fine golden sands), Siocan Beach (opposite Tabonan Beach and accessible only by boat) and Recodo Beach in Barangay Banice.

Spelunking enthusiasts might find Banton Island exciting as it is also rich in caves filled with history and culture. Among the many caves in the island are Ipot Cave in the Guyangan Cliffs where prehistoric artifacts were found in 1936 (now displayed at the National Museum in Manila) and the Silak Cave in Barangay Togbongan.

Banton Island was also cited in the book “Diving the Philippines and Southeast Asia” by Heneage Mitchell as one of the best diving sites in the country. Some of the diving sites in the island he noted are the island’s West Side, the Northeast Wall (just off the Moro Caves) and the Dos Hermanas Islands (two inhabited islands several kilometers northwest of the island). Unfortunately, diving enthusiasts have to bring their own equipment as the island has no diving facilities.

In a country which hosts various festivals everyday, Banton Island cannot be spared. The island hosts two festivals: the Sanrokan Festival during the Lenten Season and the Biniray Festival on September 10.

Sanrokan Festival

The Sanrokan Festival showcases the local tradition of sharing food, especially viand, among neighbors and starts from Black Saturday up to Easter Sunday. In the weeks leading to these days, preparations are made through the decorating of the town’s streets with colorful banderitas. Palm bouquets are hung on the four stone towers leading to the Church of San Nicolas de Tolentino. There are two phases to the Sanrokan Festival: the Sanrokan sa Barangay (sharing of food in the villages) and the Sanrokan sa Poblacion (sharing of food at the town proper). Sanrokan sa Barangay begins on Black Saturday in a venue set by the local village chieftains. It is here that families bring over their prepared assortment of viands to be shared with their neighbors. A boodle fight emerges as the feast begins. Parlor games such as chasing the pig, palosebo (climbing a greased bamboo pole to claim a prize) and the likes accompany the celebrations. The Sanrokan sa Poblacion, meanwhile, happens at Easter Sunday. It starts with the traditional Easter Sunday mass at the Church of San Nicolas de Tolentino. This is followed by the Hanrumanan (meaning souvenir/legacy) street dancing and parade. Various villages prepare tribal dances to be presented at the main street of the town. This is different from other festivals in the country like the Ati-atihan and the Masskara Festivals as it highlights local traditions and practices. After the parade, families join together at the Sanrokan venue to share the food they have brought along with them. At night, there is also the so-called Sanrokan Night, an event which includes contests that shows off the talent of many Bantoanons. Singing and dance contest are what usually pays off and cheers the crowd. This is followed by a public dance ball attended by both the young and the old in the town.

Biniray Festival

Meanwhile, the Biniray Festival is done in honor of the town’s patron saint, San Nicolas de Tolentino. According to legend, when the Muslims raid the various islands of the Visayas including Banton, the locals’ devotion to San Nicolas de Tolentino protected them from such attacks. One local folklore even explains the connection between San Nicolas de Tolentino and the island’s rocky coastline. It is said that the rocks used to be Muslim pirates turned to stone by an apparition of the saint thus thwarting their impending advance to the town. Every year, on the 10th of September, the entire island pays tribute and homage to San Nicolas de Tolentino’s role in enriching the faith and devotion of the locals to Catholicism. Holy mass is held in celebration of his feast day, followed by the parading of the image of San Nicolas de around town, accompanied by brass bands and devotees. This leads to a fluvial parade around the waters of the municipality, with each village giving homage to the image of the saint. The Bantoanon diaspora in the various provinces of Luzon like Cavite, Batangas, Laguna, Bulacan and Metro Manila also celebrate the Biniray in an agreed upon venue. A Sanrokan can accompany the Biniray Festival if the organizers wish so that neighbors can celebrate its patron saint’s feast day with a feast of food and drinks shared by the local people.

Pagudpud

Pagudpud, a town situated 1 and a half hours north of Laoag City, the provincial capital of Ilocos Norte, and about 10 hours by land from the Philippine capital Manila, is fast gaining fame in the international travel circuit staking its claim amongst the pretenders to the throne of having the best Philippine beach which unarguably is perennially held by Boracay in Aklan. But Boracay it is not, although it comes pretty close when it comes to sand quality, the clarity of its stunningly blue waters and the length and width of its beaches (other beaches in the Philippines do have white sand, but not as fine nor the beach as long nor wide). But whilst Boracay caters to the to the party scene and its extensive range of island activities, Pagudpud derives its charm from exactly the opposite of that – even on a long weekend, the beaches of Maira-ira, Saud and Pansian rarely get the hordes of tourists that Boracay, Panglao (Bohol), and Puerto Galera (Oriental Mindoro) due to the town’s relative remoteness (although Easter Weekend is an apparent exception as told by our Korong-korong driver where the road to Maira-ira can get pretty clogged with traffic).

Pagudpud, the town, was still named as Tongotong which was then under the administrative control of the town of Bangui as being one of the barrios. And then just before the outbreak of World War II, a Batangas native, according to a local story, arrived in the area selling mosquito nets and blankets from house to house until he was totally exhausted. He sought shelter in one of the houses, hungry and tired, asking the owner of the house for a simple meal. After all had settled down, the owner asked the itinerant vendor for his purpose, and the guy, not understanding the local language merely replied, “Ako’y pagud na pagod na at ang sapatos ko’s pudpod,” in heavily Batangas-accented Tagalog meaning “I am very tired and my shoes are all worn out”. The reply became the byword of the Tongotong locals even though they themselves did not understand the meaning of what has been said. A few months later, a Bicolano (native of the Bicol Region of the Philippines) arrived to seek employment in one of the logging companies in the region (as apparently the area had thick, virgin forested mountains before and logging was still allowed by law). The guy, not knowing where the office of the company was located got off in Tongotong and asked one of the locals for the name of the place and he immediately replied, “Ako’y pagud na pagod na at ang sapatos ko’s pudpod,” as the bystander thought the man was a Tagalog and those were the only Tagalog words he knew. Our guy interpreted that the place might be called Pagud-pudpod. Tongotong became Pagud-pudpod and later shortened to Pagudpud.

But that was one story. The elders say that Pagudpud is an old Ilocano word which meant soft sandy soil “kuppuoy” a kadaratan. The majority of the population of its 20,385 residents is composed of Ilocanos, whilst a few are a collection of Apayaos, Bicolanos and Visayans.

Blue Lagoon

Pagudpud’s main attractions are of course its beautiful beaches, and unlike other pretenders to Boracay’s throne, Pagudpud has every reason to believe that it does rival Boracay’s spectacular sceneries. So much so, that international travelers started to sit up and take notice. Sunday Herald Sun of Australia ranked Saud Beach as Number 1 on its list of the top ten best, lesser-known beaches of Asia besting Thailand’s Ko Adang, Sri Lanka’s Bentota, and Cambodia’s Occheuteal among others.

Pagudpud has three different beaches actually – Maira-ira Point which is also known by its moniker, Blue Lagoon and the other name Malingay Cove (It is not a lagoon – it is more like a cove), Saud and Pansian – all white sand beaches. Pansian is the furthest of the three which is almost at the border of Cagayan province and rarely gets any visitors at all, if any. The two most popular are Maira-ira and Saud. Saud is where all the resorts are, and when we say that the waters off Saud are emerald-colored even during cloudy weather or when its waves are rough– we are not kidding you. The beach is long, palm-fringed and with less people and on a clear day, one can see the Bangui windmills in the distance. The waters can be rough and dangerous during the rainy season as Saud faces the open sea and the current can be very treacherous so adequate caution and common sense are very important.

Maira-ira meanwhile has a shorter beach but has calmer waters compared to Saud. Unlike Saud with sudden drops a few meters from the shore, Maira-ira boasts of a mostly gently sloping beach into the ocean. Maira-ira is more scenic as well, the beach forming a graceful arc, with some rock formations on the right end and the islets of Dos Hermanos (Two Brothers) that seem to be guarding the cove to the left end. The main annoyance is probably the irritating sound of banana-boats in Maira-ira and the presence of some trash which we think is more or less manageable. The local government of Pagudpud should start a daily clean-up and environmental education campaigns in the area to further minimize or possibly eliminate trash in Maira-ira. The Dos Hermanos islets, which can be reached by motorized boats off Maira-ra meanwhile pride themself with their caves, rock formations, and a smattering of colorful tropical fish. The best part of the Pagudpud beaches, rarely you will get any touts at all, one can actually lie down in some corner without being bothered by anyone selling crap – better watch out for a tiny herd of goats though, cute but otherwise mostly harmless.

Kabigan Falls
Photo by huno

Aside from the stunning beaches, Pagudpud offers a lot of other attractions as well. The waterfalls of Kabigan and Saguigui on Barangay Balaoi are quite dramatic. Kabigan Falls is 80 feet surrounded by lush forest and a concave basin and practically reminds us of those picturesque waterfalls of the jungles of the Caribbean while Saguigui Falls is a smaller waterfall and very hard to get to.

Not to be outdone, Bantay Abot Caves and Timmangtang Rock in Sitio Gaoa also in Barangay Balaoi are other interesting spots in the area. Bantay Abot means “a mountain with a hole” and sometimes called “the underground sea” as there is luxuriant greenery on top of the cave. Bantay Abot Caves had a hole in the middle of the mountains where the waves crashed until it was wrecked in a massive tremor in the ‘80s. Inside the cave is a church where one can hear the echoing sound of the waves, hear the swallows that swarm in the late afternoon and other birds chirp freely. The shore of the caves has white sand mixed with shells and rocks and has quite a great view of the sea and the rugged mountains.

A few meters away is the Timmangtang Rock, a bell-shaped rock covered with vegetation and with the Bantay Abot Caves is collectively named as “Lover’s Rock” with Bantay Abot being the female and Timmangtang as the male – possibly an obvious reference to the male and female nether regions, hey?

Still on Sitio Gaoa, a panoramic view of the Pasaleng Bay, Maira-ira Point and on a clear day Babuyan Island way up north can be had at the Nacatnagan Cliff, 150 feet above sea level. As an Ilocano word meaning “fell down”, stories of Nacatnagan tell that in old times, two carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes) climbed the mountain and fell down the cliff, thus, its name. The cliff has an untouched forest teeming with wild animals, wild orchids and rare ferns along its slippery and steep slopes.

As mentioned in the Ilocos Norte article, the Patapat viaduct which is also considered as the 4th longest bridge in the Philippines, is a winding bridge hugging the cliffs of the Northern Cordillera Mountain Ranges which connects the barangays Balaoi and Pansian and is about 1.2 kilometers long. Dubbed as the “French Riviera of the North” for this breathtakingly beautiful coastal drive, one can pass by Mabugabog Falls, a source of power for the mini-hydroelectric plant. This pretty bridge features a blue sea and sea birds on one side and the beautiful mountains on one side. Can’t be any nicer than that!

If you need to get your adrenaline fix, shooting the rapids at Bolo River which divides the towns of Pagudpud and Bangui should get that blood pumping with its big boulders, and deep water in one of its portions in Barangays Dampig, Tarrag and Poblacion 1.

Every April, Pagudpud celebrates the Kangayedan Festival.

Batanes

After about 1 hour and 45 minutes SEAIR flight from Manila, we finally caught a glimpse of the northernmost province of the Philippines and from the air, one can see the fields that look like a labyrinthine patchwork of green bordered by tall hedgerows of grass, reeds, piled stones and trees which serve as a crop protection from the fierce winds, and typhoons which commonly pass near the islands as well as huge waves that crash into dramatic cliffs and rocks that jut out into the ocean, which undoubtedly look incredibly similar to the English moors and Scottish Highlands with a Filipino twist. Think Wuthering Heights and you’ll know what we mean. In 1687, English freebooters with a Dutch crew arrived in these islands and named three of the islands in honor of their monarchs- the main island of Batan was named Grafton Isle after Henry Fitzroy, First Duke of Grafton; Sabtang was named Monmouth Isle after James Scott, First Duke of Monmouth and Itbayat was named Orange Isle after William of Orange. The freebooters were led by William Dampier who stayed on the islands for three months but never claimed the islands for the British crown.

Mahatao Hedgerows
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Batanes is bordered by the Pacific Ocean to the east, South China Sea to the west, Bashi Channel and Taiwan to the north and the Balintang Channel to the south. It is composed of 11 islands, of which Itbayat, Sabtang and Batan Islands are inhabited while Ditarem, Adekey, Vuhus, Misanga, Dinem, Mavudis and all others are uninhabited.

We held our breaths as the Dornier plane finally landed at the Basco Airport, with its tiny terminal building inspired by the traditional Ivatan stone house, a refreshingly different architectural and classy take on the many airports that I have went through so far. Under the shadows of the looming Mount Iraya in the distance, finally we had arrived in Batanes.

Early in its history, Batanes already had a civilization flourishing on its islands and was ruled by powerful chiefs who exacted revenues, administered justice, as well as exercised military might especially during times of invasion from other tribes. The idjangs or fortresses of pre-colonial Batanes can still be found all over the islands and they are usually perched on hilltops like the ones that we have seen on Sabtang and Batan Island (Itbud). The idjang in Savidug on Sabtang Island is considered to be one of the most perfectly shaped and the most beautiful among all the Batanes idjangs. Apparently, experts have noted how these idjangs are pretty similar to the gusukus found in Okinawa, Japan. The ancient Ivatans who are Austronesian in origin lived on these idjangs since they first migrated into Batanes about 4,000 years ago during the Neolithic Period. It was during the Spanish Inquisition and the Spanish governorship was established along the coastlines and lowlands which forced the early Ivatans- the people of the islands, to come down from their idjangs and convert to the new system of government. It was around 1686 and 1719 when Dominicans sent expeditions to the islands to proselytize and by 1773, the Ivatans became subjects of the Spanish King. It was only in June 26, 1783, over two centuries after the formal colonization of the Philippines by Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, when Batanes was formally annexed to the Spanish Colonial State under Governor Jose Basco y Vargas. The capital town Basco, obviously got its name from the Spanish Governor General’s surname.

Batanes Lighthouse
Photo by xave

The Spanish imprint on the islands became indelible when it was finally decreed that no house should be built more than 2,786 meters (half a league) from the nearest church. The Dominican influence is very much alive today in the similar architectural styles of the Batanes churches – the most notable churches are the gorgeous churches of San Jose Obrero Church in Ivana, Sabtang, San Carlos Borromeo Church in Mahatao (1873), Sto. Domingo Cathedral in Basco (the oldest built in early 18th century), Sta. Maria Immaculada (1845) in Itbayat as well as the church in Chavayan, the latter, is the only church left in Batanes which still sports a thatched roof and probably the only pink church in the Philippines, the church of Itbud.

Limestone technology was introduced to the islands by the Spaniards and is still pretty much evident among the Old Spanish Bridges in Mahatao and Ivana as well as the iconic vernacular houses made out of limestone, stones, corals and a thatched roof which dot the three inhabited islands. The Itbayat houses apparently are built the sturdiest as they receive the harshest winter winds from Siberia from December to February. Walking through the tiny villages of traditional stone houses and quiet narrow streets of Savidug and Chavayan on Sabtang felt like being transported to another world and where time just stood still. Chavayan, which is currently nominated for the UNESCO World Heritage List, was exceptionally stunning with the village nestled between the tall lush mountains and cliffs on one side and a sweeping view of the sea where the churning waters of the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean meet. It was also in Chavayan where we met Lolo Emilio, Batanes’ oldest resident at 102 years old going 103. Like most of the houses in the islands, the houses in Chavayan are normally left unlocked while the Ivatans leave for the fields to farm or to the oceans to fish. Batanes enjoys an extremely low crime rate so much that we couldn’t help but pay the local police station a visit. According to the Ivatan’s Finest, the local police force’s nickname, aside from the occasional noisy drunks, Batanes is pretty crime-free. Of course save for the Vietnamese, Chinese and Taiwanese fishermen usually caught illegally entering and fishing in Philippine waters around Batanes. Strangers greet each other on the street. After the first day, we finally caught up with this practice and I ended up greeting every person while I was taking photos by the National Highway.

Chavayan Heritage House
Photo by Dave Ryan

Just as the rains started pouring, we ducked into probably one of the quirkiest and the most refreshing places we went to – the famous Honesty Coffee Shop in Ivana. The rules are simple, you choose what item you want to get, check the price list, and drop your payment into a box The owner who prefers to work in the field leaves the store and basically trusts their customers to be honest and pay the right amount even when no one’s looking. One of the signs on the wall reads “This store is too small for dishonest people.” True enough, not one customer has been dishonest so far.

It goes without saying that there are only about 15,974 (2007 census) people living on the only three inhabited islands, making the province the most sparsely populated in the Philippines and at 219.01 square kilometers, also the smallest province by land area. With the sounds of wind and the waves, there was a utter stillness even during the middle of the day in Batanes and moreso at night where streets are literally empty around 6PM. Electricity is on for 24 hours on the main island of Batan while Itbayat and Sabtang have electricity from 6AM-12MN. In the charming fishing village of Diura (three kilometers east of Mahatao town), which faces the Pacific Ocean and the site of busy arayu (dorado/mahi-mahi) fishing season in summer virtually becomes a ghost town during the cool winter season and from the cliffs in Tukun, one can see the only three lit lamp posts in the area. The fishermen of Diura perform the Kapayvanuvanua (which literally means, “the making of the port”), a ritual opening the port to obtain the favor of the spirit dwellers of the sea and signifies the start of the fishing season.

Taming the Waves at Sabtang Port 
Photo by Noli Gabilo

Being master seafarers and boat builders, the Ivatans are known to be well versed in reading the stars and the phases of the moon in relation to sailing between the islands. According to our extremely helpful and hospitable Ivatan guides from the Batanes Cultural Travel Agency (http://batanestravel.com/), Ely Gabilo and Tita Donato, the seas are rougher 3 days before and 3 days after a full moon and a new moon. The boats of Batanes are called the tataya (an Ivatan dory, a smaller boat usually with twin oars), the faluwa, (Ivatan boat, usually motorized as is pretty common with most boats in Batanes now and can accommodate 20-40 people and in some instances cattle and livestock- during our trip to Sabtang from Batan, we had to wait for a cow to be unloaded from the faluwa first before we boarded the last boat for the day) and the chinarem. The boats of Batanes are hardy and in the hands of a good captain, they can skillfully navigate their way through the chaotic waves that are as unpredictable as the weather in Batanes. The way I felt us moving through the waves felt like we were actually surfing the waves ( I could hear similar rushing sounds one would hear while surfing as the boat moved forward and weaved its way through the roaring waves) and eventually my suspicions were confirmed by the boatmen themselves.

The seafaring culture is pretty evident in Batanes even in the pre-Spanish boat shaped burial markers found scattered all throughout the islands (we have reports that one can find such markers at Vuhus Island, an island south of Sabtang facing the village of Sumnanga, another stunningly beautiful village made up of traditional stone houses. Sumnanga is called Little Hong Kong for the number of boats that line the coast of Duvek Bay. There are similar burial markers found on Nakamaya as well as at Nahili du Vutux, an ancient settlement which is characterized with an idjang, boat shaped burial markers, and a gorgeous view of Dinem and the eastern coast of Itbayat Island.

Windswept hills, steep cliffs, and rugged coastlines pretty much characterize typical Batanes topography, as seen in Rakuh-A-Payaman or better known for its nickname as the Marlborough Country as well as the Vayang or the Rolling Hills with the many grazing carabaos (Philippine water buffaloes), cows, horses and goats roaming the areas. The coasts made misty by ocean mists such as what we saw on our way to Chavayan along one lane road that hugs the sides of the cliffs just left us literally speechless for its absolute beauty. From Rakuh-A-Payaman as well as in Tukun, one can see the hedgerows from a distance; the spectacular scenery makes these areas one of the many favorite spots for photography in Batan Island. Tukun is the site of the northernmost Philippine weather station (PAG-ASA) in the country where the province is used as the last reference point of any tropical weather disturbance thus unfairly associating the province with perpetual bad weather. The weather station sits on top of the hill with a commanding and panoramic view of the northern portion of Batan Island where one can literally see both the South China Sea and the Pacific Ocean at the same time. Also in Tukun is the beautiful former studio of Batanes’ foremost artist, the late Pacita Abad. The studio which stands on a cliff facing the Pacific is now part of the Fundacion Pacita, a charming bed and breakfast affair run by affable Former Education Secretary Butch Abad and his wife Ms. Dina Abad.

Sabtang Church
Photo by Dave Ryan

Batanes also boasts of stretches of white and cream colored sandy beaches, probably the most famous of which is the Nakabuang Beach on Sabtang with its often photographed stone/rock arch formation where picnics are usually held during the summer months. The smaller White Beach and the nearby Blue Lagoon in Mahatao offers pretty views as well. Swimming is unsafe in Blue Lagoon however, that is if you don’t want to get smashed into the massive rocks while White Beach is a good and passable beach in our opinion (however, we saw a small but growing problem of garbage around the area which we hope would be addressed pretty soon, Nakabuang Beach is in more pristine condition). A private beach, Disvayangan has a row of private picnic houses for rent. Diving (www.divebatanes.com/) is also possible in Batanes with Duvek Bay in Sumnanga having one of the best coral conditions in Batanes as well as in Siayan Island about 5.5 nautical miles from Itbayat which is surrounded by beautiful white beaches and rich coral which teems with abundant marine life.

Itbayat, the northernmost inhabited island in the Philippines, however, does not have any beaches as the entire island is basically surrounded by cliffs. There are other interesting islands in the area, however, they are better reached during the summer months as travel from islands can take a lot of time and the waves can be treacherous. One of the most striking and probably one of the images that we will probably remember about our trip to Batanes would be the Valugan Boulder Beach facing the Pacific where huge smooth stones spewed out by Mount Iraya during an eruption in 400 AD are found right along the beach.

Ilocos Norte

Ilocos Norte, which is about 488 kilometers north of the Philippine capital of Manila, means two things to ordinary Filipinos – the late Philippine dictator Ferdinand E. Marcos who was born in the town of Sarrat and the sprawling 77-hectare Fort Ilocandia (http://www.fortilocandia.com.ph/hotel.htm) (one of the largest resorts in the entire Asia), which according to stories, were hastily built by the late President in time for his daughter, Imee’s wedding and primarily caters now to Chinese Mainlanders, Macanese, and Taiwanese high-rollers who fly in to gamble in its casino. So much so that the name Ilocos alone, is almost synonymous with the Marcoses, one of the most controversial Philippine political dynasties in recent memory. Undeserving or not, this hardy and sometimes misunderstood northern province is definitely more than the sum of its contributions to the political history of the country – and in recent years, a wave of change finally came to wake up one of the usually overlooked destinations in the Philippines from hiatus since the fall from grace of its beloved son as more and more Filipinos and the occasional foreigner discover one of the most interesting and beautiful northern frontiers of the Philippines.

Like the other provinces in the region, which is usually collectively known as Ilocos, Ilocos Norte shares a deep history with its neighboring provinces. The extensive region was renowned for its gold mines and merchants from ancient China and Japan would visit and trade gold in exchange for beads, ceramics and silk with the early inhabitants of Samtoy, as the locals once called their place from “sao mi toy”, which meant “our language.” As the Spanish conquistadors solidified their control of Manila in 1571, Miguel Lopez de Legazpi’s grandson, Juan de Salcedo led an expedition to the North. After arriving and annexing Vigan in Ilocos Sur on 13 June 1572, Salcedo then marched onward towards Laoag, Currimao and Badoc towns (part of what is present day Ilocos Norte). This was when Salcedo found the natives lived in villages in small bays on coves called “looc” in the local dialect. The natives by the coast were referred to as “Ylocos” which meant “from the lowlands” (the “Igorots” of the Cordilleras on the other hand meant “from the highlands”). Subsequently, the Spaniards called the region “Ylocos” or “Ilocos” and its people “Ilocanos.”

Christianization grew and flourished under the watchful eyes of the Spaniards and this eventually transformed the landscape of the region as vast tracks of available land were appropriated and utilized for churches and belfries in the Spanish policy of reducciones, which are formation of communities to facilitate the Hispanicization and eventually the Christianization of the region. Then, communities were scattered and living in one was determined by bloodlines – these communities were moved to be in these new missions which were called bajo la campanas or within hearing distance of the church bells. Thus, it is not uncommon to find garrisons under church bells in town squares. The widespread building of churches in Ilocos resulted to stunning architectural marvels that we still see today, the most famous, and I reckon one of the most beautiful churches in the Philippines, is the gorgeous Paoay Church, built in 1704 (finished 90 years later) and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s a church of “Earthquake Baroque” style with 24 massive brick reinforcements running along its sides with walls made out of coral rocks, baked bricks, lumber, limestone mortar and sugarcane juice. Paoay Church is a unique fusion of Gothic, Baroque and Oriental touches as its façade has touches of Gothic familiarity, Chinese elements in its gables and a Javanese feel in its niches. It stands in all its beauty and splendor (pretty much how I imagined it to be when I first saw a picture of the church when I was in grade school) in front of a wide-open square, unlike the churches in other parts of the Philippines which are almost choked by houses and businesses.

Also in Paoay is a more modern structure with historical and political significance – the Malacañang Ti Amianan (Malacañang of the North- a reference to the Malacañang Palace in Manila which is the official residence of Philippine Presidents – makes you kind of wonder if indeed, Marcos intended to be a President for as long as he lived), a large, airy and colonial-inspired former residence of the Marcos family with sweeping views of the scenic Paoay Lake. Admission is PhP20. The building is not very well-kept and in various states of disrepair – peeling paint, discolored walls, and we saw a cow grazing right next to a grimy swimming pool t next to the house.

4 Kilometers East of Paoay Church is Batac whose main attraction is the Marcos Mansion and Mausoleum where the glass-encased, embalmed body of Ferdinand E. Marcos lies in state on a mattress in an air-conditioned, dark and somber room while visitors file and have a glance at the body. Entrance is free but photography is not allowed inside the mausoleum (one guy’s camera was confiscated as he tried to sneak shots of the body, the camera was returned after making sure the offending photos were deleted.) Apparently the body was covered in wax, to preserve it well and make the late President look a lot like he was in his younger years; although Filipino conspiracy theorists suspect that the body is fake and just another con to perpetuate the Marcoses dubious political legacy. Well, I am not an expert on cadavers; I’d just rather leave it to the experts this time. Other Marcos memorabilia is on hand is also on view as well as the dictator’s writings, one of which was inscribed on marble outside the mausoleum: which more or less were ramblings which attempt to impress the visitors of the strongman’s intellectual and literary prowess.

Southwest of Batac are the towns of Currimao and Badoc. Currimao is known for its rock formations (which pretty much looked like dried up coral beds that stretch along most of its coastline fronting the South China Sea and the spectacular sunsets at Pangil. Among the rock formations, there are little lagoons which are nice for swimming. There are almost no accommodations here save for 2-4 open-air huts scattered along the coastline. Most just drive to the area and then leave in the late afternoon. The island of Badoc (of Badoc town) meanwhile is a surfing destination secret and not much is known of the area except that a few intrepid Australians surf the area. The waves are inconsistent but it is apparently on fire from October to early March and of course when there are typhoons or tropical depressions out in the South China Sea. The famous breaks are the Badoc Island Lefts (waves can get higher than 3 meters), Badoc Point (breaks are powerful with surfing up to 2.5 meters), Star Tubes (1-2 meter left hander), Turtle Head Rights (waves consistent up to two meters and hits a shallow reef). The island is uninhabited and all accommodations are on the mainland.

Aside from surfing, Badoc is also known as the birthplace of foremost Filipino painter, Father of Philippine Romanticism, and Philippine revolutionary hero Juan Luna. Luna’s most famous painting is the Spoliarium, a painting demanded of him by the Ayuntamiento, which was then sent to Madrid’s Exposición Nacional de Bellas Artes of 1884 which he won with three gold medals awarded in concourse. The painting depicts a chamber under a Roman arena where bodies of dead gladiators were being dragged into a shadowy area, possibly to be dumped in a bigger pile of dead bodies. The painting now hangs in the Main Gallery of the National Museum of the Philippines in Manila. His other works are the La Battala de Lepanto which was commissioned by the Spanish Senate and the El Pacto de Sangre which depicts the blood compact between Datu Sikatuna of Bohol and Spanish conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legaspi which is now displayed in the Malacañang Palace, the Rendicion de Granada and Ecce Homo. You should be able to visit the Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc which is a reconstruction of the two-storey house in which he was born (original house was burned down in 1861) which features a family gallery with vintage photographs of the Luna family, reproductions of the Spoliarium and El Pacto de Sangre and period accessories and furniture which is pretty common in museums and shrines in the region.

Sinking Bell Tower of Laoag
Photo by Dave Ryan Buaron

Going up further north is the city of Laoag, the provincial capital, which compared to Vigan in Ilocos Sur is a lot busier, and bustling with trade and commerce. Laoag City (which also has an international airport) serves as a jump off point and is the most convenient place to base yourselves if you plan to hop on to most of the destinations in the neighboring provinces of Ilocos Sur, Abra, Benguet and Cagayan. Laoag has a handful of attractions, the most intriguing of which is the Sinking Bell Tower, 85 meters away from the St. William’s Cathedral, which is one of the biggest cathedrals of the Philippines and concurrently the seat of the Diocese of Laoag. The Cathedral was then occupied by the Revolutionists of 1898 and by the American forces the succeeding year. The 45 meter high Sinking Bell Tower is considered to be one of, if not the tallest edifice built in the entire Ilocos Norte. Stories claim that when it was built, a person on a horseback could pass through its doors freely, but today, one has to stoop very low just to get inside the bell tower. Another Laoag attraction is the Museo Ilocos Norte (also known as “Gameng” – Ilocano for treasure) which is close to the Provincial Capitol and is the repository of Ilocano heritage and culture. The museum is housed in a former Tabacalera warehouse, a former factory for tobacco which the region is known for, and a throwback to the heydays of the Tobacco Monopoly during the Spanish period. The museum is open during weekdays (except during lunch) for a minimal fee.

On the outskirts of Laoag, one can find the 52 square miles of seemingly endless coastal sand dunes of La Paz (Suba), where scenes from Born of the Fourth of July and Mad Max along with many Filipino movies were filmed.

La Paz Sand Dunes
Photo by storm-crypt

After Laoag going north is the town of Bacarra famous for its Church which was constructed in 1593 and inaugurated in 1782 (destroyed in the massive 7.8 magnitude earthquake in August 1983 and reconstructed and inaugurated August of the following year. The main attraction however is its domeless belfry built in 1830, made up of coral and stucco whose original height was 50 meters with a wall five meters thick. The 1931 earthquake destroyed it, causing the top portions to tilt to the right (thus, it was once called the Leaning Tower of Bacarra). The tower was built away from the church similar to other churches in the region, to reduce the damage in case the tower comes crashing down in another major earthquake. This proved to be the case as the dome finally crumbled during the last big tremor as one can still see the pile of grass-covered brick debris strewn around the side of Bacarra Tower (a big cross is currently hanging from its top). Aside from the church and the bell-tower, we found the Bacarra town hall nearby quite charming with its Filipino-Spanish-Mexican architectural finishes as well as its deep blue paint which kind of reminded us something out of a vivid Dora The Explorer cartoon.

Further north are the towns of Pasuquin, Burgos, Bangui, Pagudpud, Dumalneg and Adams. Pasuquin is known for its salt-making and chunks and chunks of salt can be seen by the coast as well as the requisite rows and rows of tiny huts along the road selling the town’s famous produce. It was also in Pasuquin and Burgos that we noticed two quirky things, a hotel (Palalay Hotel) which has an ocean view but, and I am not kidding, is right next to a graveyard (now that’s what I call ambience) and a beach resort which is called Sexy Beach Resort – made us chuckle to see the sign: Sexy Beach Entrance.

The town of Burgos is also known for the oldest lighthouse, as well as the most visited lighthouse in the Philippines – the impressive Cape Bojeador Lighthouse (Tagalog – Ang Parola ng Cape Bojeador) was completed on 30 March 1892 and sits majestically on top of the lush Vigia de Nagparitan hill which also makes it as the tallest lighthouse in the Philippines with its tower 20 meters high (total height is about 160-170 meters high) .The brick-made lighthouse tower stands like a graceful sentinel of the treacherous seas around and is still functioning to date. Entrance is free, but the aged tower can only comfortably accommodate up to 4-5 people and affords the visitor a spectacular view of the rugged mountains and the beautiful waters of South China Sea. The design and construction was initially supervised by Engineer Magin Pers Y Pers and finished by Engineer Guillermo Brockman. The lighthouse has a little museum housed in one of the two weather-beaten brick buildings which can make anyone wax romantic (as long as one is not trampled by crowds of tourists trying to queue up to get into this really nice building during weekends), and a small and lovely courtyard. On a clear day, the lighthouse can be seen as far away as the towns of Pasuquin and Bangui.

Bangui Windmills
Photo by World Bank Philippines

After the town of Burgos is Bangui, which gained tourism fame when in 2005, the first wind farm in Southeast Asia started operations with 15 wind turbines of about 70 meters tall rose along the 9-kilometer stretch of the beach on Bangui Bay. The turbines supply the Ilocos Norte Electric Cooperative with about 25 Megawatts of power. Discussions are rife of putting up additional 40 wind turbines in the mountains of the area. Tourists started flocking to the turbines which look like giant white fans, which makes it as a lovely spot for great photography. According to one of the locals however, the windmills have caused an adverse effect on the fishing industry in the area as the sound of the windmills scare away the fish which are the primary livelihood of the area. On the other hand, Northwind Power, the company that operates the windmills remits one centavo (PhP 0.01) to the Department of Energy for every kilowatt sold, half of which goes to an electrification fund, watershed management, environmental enhancement and health fund – whether any of these funds go to the affected locals in the area is anybody’s guess – we found two stalls selling Bangui honey and Ilocos garlic in the area and the old man manning his rickety shop seemed to be quite happy about the tourists flocking in the area.

Being an inveterate beach bum myself, I could not resist a trip to the town of Pagudpud famous for its white sand beaches which consists of the beaches of Pansian (which is close to the border of the province of Cagayan and usually deserted), Maira-ira (also known as the Blue Lagoon but more like a cove than a lagoon), and Saud (its two kilometer arc was named by the Sunday Herald Sun as the number 1 of the best, but lesser known beaches in Asia). Maira-ira, we reckon has the best and the bluest waters and on an Independence Day weekend, we were surprised that there were not throngs of people there (although one of the locals told us that during Easter, the beach is clogged with a lot of tourists and the traffic of cars going to the lagoon can be pretty bad). The beach is considerably clean (though we saw a little bit of trash – it was fairly manageable), and the waters are nice and warm. The sand is not too shifty either and the idyllic scenery is occasionally punctured by the sound of whizzing of banana boat rides (which we think should be banned from the area soon).

Saud Beach, Pagudpud
Photo by storm-crypt

Going to Saud from Maira-ira can be a little tricky. There are not a lot of tricycles nor vehicles ferrying people unless you hire one at the Pagudpud town proper yourself (PhP 600 for a trip around the area). We ended up leaving the tour group in Maira-ira and took a korong-korong, a tricycle without any cover at all and mostly used for deliveries rather than transporting people. It probably took us about 30 minutes to Saud, which was almost deserted. The waters are rougher in Saud in June but the beach is wider, cleaner and longer and the sand is a little finer (although Boracay still wins hands down when it comes to sand quality- although there are less people and zero touts in Pagudpud) than Maira-ira. Most of the accommodations in Pagudpud are in this area and a cold San Miguel is easy to get from any of the resorts’ restaurants. From Saud, one can see the windmills of Bangui in the distance. If you have to go back to Laoag the same day, you can take a tricycle from any of the resorts and head to the very sleepy Pagudpud town proper by about 4-4:30PM you should be able to catch an open-air bus to Laoag. An air-conditioned bus leaves for Manila via Laoag at 7PM, but when there is really nothing to do in the town proper, might as well take that non-air-conditioned one.

The other towns of Ilocos Norte have their own attractions as well – there is rock-climbing in Adams (which according to a friend, as the town has zero crime rate – one can rent the town jail for the night); the winding Patapat Viaduct which hugs coastline and the Agua Grande River Park at its end; beautiful waterfalls up the Karingking River in Solsona as well as the Kabigan Falls of Pagudpud; birdwatching in Marcos town and the red-bricked, Baroque and Neo-classical Style, controversial Santa Monica Church in Sarrat where Marcos’ daughter Irene had her fairytale wedding to Greg Araneta, where the entire town was converted in a Potemkin village – which included whitewashing of the antique altars and the entire stock of Colonial Filipino costumes at the Cultural Center of the Philippines brought to Sarrat to dress its townsfolk to complete the theme transforming the farming village into a Spanish-Filipino colonial town and a red carpet that stretched out for miles. The wedding cost roughly US$10 Million, not including the new hotel and airport. Two months later, a powerful earthquake destroyed the church’s belfry and the altar of Santa Monica. The church’s ruins has a torture room that features two brick-encrusted pillars which according to a Filipino historian were used to hang Filipinos accused of treason during the Spanish regime.

There is almost a festival happening every month in Ilocos Norte (except for the months of July, August and October) but the most famous is the Empanada Festival of Batac in June and the Pamulinawen Festival in Laoag City in February.

Several arranged tours go to Ilocos Norte (usually in conjunction with a trip to Ilocos Sur as well) and the one we went with Discover Asia International Travel and Tours (www.discoverpinas.multiply.com ), although some areas were not covered by the official itinerary, however, we left the group to see those places by ourselves.